Friday, March 16, 2018

Panna - The Tiger's Second Life (December 2017)

The tigress roared. Her confident voice reverberated through the magnificent teak forests that make up her home. She is T1, the Queen Mother of Panna National Park. Ruler she may be, but T1 was not born here. She was raised 300 kms away in another forest and was relocated here to rekindle the almost dead embers of Panna around 8 years ago. She and two more tigers (Female T2 and Male T3) were brought to help repopulate a forest that had lost all its tigers to poaching. And to have succeeded so dramatically against so many odds is a testament not only to the tigers of Panna but also to the forest department, particularly their visionary ex-Field Director Mr. Murthy.

Our annual year-end holiday ended with a couple of days in Khajuraho followed by New Year's in Panna. The magnificent temples of Khajuraho were simply breathtaking and the Sound and Light Show in Amitabh Bachchan's unique baritone was super special. But for me, Panna would be the highlight of the trip. It was a forest I'd heard so much about and while I wasn't expecting to see tigers up close, one is always salivating at the prospect of reacquainting with one of the most special creatures to roam this planet. And we arrived in Panna one afternoon, checking-in at the Ken River Lodge before setting out for the afternoon safari. The Lodge, set on the Ken River is Panna's oldest property and is comfortable, but not luxurious.

We entered Panna through the Madla gate with our driver/guide Swami. He's probably the most experienced naturalist there and an absolute fountain of knowledge and wisdom. He was barely able to hold back the emotion in his voice when he spoke about the wiping out of the tigers and their spectacular comeback. And with a fervent wish to spot one of these animals we drove onwards until we saw a white jeep parked with a couple of men inside. It was a forest department jeep and these men were tracking a tigress. Post the reintroduction, around a dozen tigers have been radio-collared and their movements are tracked 24/7 by a jeep dedicated to each tiger. It is tracking like no where else and the commitment is absolutely staggering. Anyways, we knew that the jeep was a sure indicator of a tiger's presence and we waited a safe distance around a bend. Seeing the forest vehicle drive off, we also moved on, assuming the tigress had gone. But just as we rounded the bend, we saw her cross the road right in front of us. She was P141, one of the second generation tigers of Panna, who was born in this forest. She crossed and moved on, accompanied by the frantic alarm calls of langur and spotted deer. We waited for her to come back, but she was on her way. And we drove on.

Less than a hundred metres away, a volley of fresh alarm calls greeted us and we (naturally) assumed that P141 had come back to the area. Much to our surprise, we saw it was a beautiful male leopard. He walked in the thickets above the road for more than a couple of kilometres before melting away from the throng of jeeps that waited for him. It was an incredible sighting, though there were no photos, of him or the tigress. And we we headed back, with a cool breeze blowing over the Ken River, I reflected on a magical safari where I'd seen both a tiger and leopard, only the second time it has ever happened to me. And suddenly, expectations of Panna skyrocketed!

Morning safaris in all MP forests are long affairs, from dawn till about 11 a.m. and we headed the next morning to find T1 who was sighted the previous day with her two cubs. We drove through pristine teak forests and then emerged into a large grassland (Bhadrun) where, once again, the telltale forest jeep told us what we wanted to know. The tigers were close by. And we settled there for the morning, along with the rest of the jeeps. The tigers were quite far, across a large meadow and under thick bush and trees. For almost the whole morning we got glimpses of face or tail or a flank here and there. But no quality sighting. And most of the other jeeps gave up and moved on. But we stayed put. And got our reward when mother and cubs briefly came out in the open before heading back into the thicket. Definitely not a close sighting, but a prized one for sure.

That afternoon, Swami wanted us to see the 'Vulture Point' or Dhundhwa. We headed uphill and stopped at a place with sheer cliffs to our left and right. And perched at various points on these cliffs were hundreds of Indian, White-rumped and Griffon Vultures. It was a majestic sight and the children were able to get some decent images of these wonderful birds reasonably up close. Vulture populations have dropped 99% over the past few decades and every single bird is extra-precious. We headed further and saw another vulture - The King (or Red-headed) Vulture sitting by himself near a waterbody. On a nearby tree we saw Lesser Adjutants and a lone Black Stork. All in all a fantastic half hour as a birder. But our mission included Pantera Tigris as well and Swami rushed us back to Bhadrun where as usual, all the jeeps had staked out the grassland. The two cubs had provided glimpses through the thick grass and everyone was waiting for them to emerge. And duly we took our appointed place between two jeeps and added to the list of 'waitees'.

Right in front of us was a little gully, the smallest of gaps through the thick grass. Probably enough space for a tiger to walk out of. My mind conjured up imaginary tigers in that gully while the rest of the junta were searching high and low elsewhere for a glimpse of face or tail. And then, unbelievably, there was a tiger right there. Barely 20 feet away and staring straight at us! At an angle where we were pretty much the only people to be able to see it. Tiger and audience locked eyes for a precious few moments and then it vanished as silently as it came. Though the undergrowth was too thick for photography, we'd been blessed by one of the finest sightings we could have ever hoped for in Panna. And then it was time to leave. Our jeep started moving, bang in the middle of a long convoy. And then suddenly braked. One of the tigers was in the open, sitting at the edge of the grass, with nary a care in the world. We got a precious few moments admiring this most magnificent of animals and then headed back to the hotel, feeling incredibly light headed. What a day!

The final day of our trip and the final day of 2017. This time I was all alone in the jeep as the kids were asked to take a break. Swami led us straight to Bhadrun once again, since there was no reliable news of any other tiger sightings. As we arrived there, we found the the grassland enveloped in thick mist, as if it was throwing a protective cloak over its precious denizens. We waited for it to clear (along with all the other jeeps) and did manage a couple of glimpses of mother and cubs. A repeat performance in the evening and it was time to wind down from a spectacular trip to one of the finest forests in India.

Panna's rejuvenation shows that Nature and its blessed ones can bounce back if given the opportunity and adequate protection. And that hope is what keeps all of us going. 

Panna Trip Guide 

Getting there
Panna lies in North Eastern Madhya Pradesh, less than an hour's drive from the famous Khajuraho temples, making it easier to access compared to many other parks in the state.

Khajuraho (45 kms) is the nearest airport and probably the best route to get to Panna. Khajuraho is connected by air with Varanasi and Delhi (via daily flights but a slightly convoluted route) and both Air India and Jet Airways fly out of Khajuraho

Panna has a reasonably good variety of stay options.

The Ken River Lodge ( is the oldest property and is set on the Ken River itself. It has regular cottages and Family cottages. I would recommend the former, since they're closer to the reception and also in better shape.
The naturalists at Ken are superb, the superb Swami and the venerable Shukra ji are not only experts but also wonderful people.

The Taj group of hotels has the Pashangarh, another highly rated property.

Panna offers gypsy safaris, booked by your hotel. Please do let them know about your requirements in advance, especially during season.

Other attractions 
The Khajuraho temples can easily be combined with a trip to Panna. These spectacular monuments have to be seen to be described. No photos can do them justice. And a couple of days in Khajuraho (at the fantastic Lalit property) dovetails very well with 2-3 days in the forests of Panna.

Other Tips
Panna can get really hot in summer, so sunscreen, comfortable clothes and headgear are a must. It can get equally cold in winter, so carry a thick jacket for sure.

Prepare for dust, so if you're troubled or allergic, a face mask will come in handy.

Sunday, February 11, 2018

Sunday at the Races- February 2018

No, equines galloping on a track don't count as wildlife in my book either. And they certainly don't belong on this blog. The race I am referring to is the Mumbai edition of the India Bird Races 2018, held on 4th February 2018. And unlike the equine variety, the only gambling here is in choosing the spots you choose to bird in and there are no odds offered whatsoever. So if you are of a sporting disposition, I am sorry to have disappointed you with a 'Clickbait' title. Guilty as charged.

The HSBC Bird Races have been held in India for 15 years now, beginning in Mumbai and growing to 16 cities now. A brainchild of noted naturalist and bird maestro Sunjoy Monga and Ravi Vaidyanthan (and aided by dear friend Pravin Subramanian) the 2018 edition attracted more than 300 participants. For those not in the know, a Bird Race involves teams of birding enthusiasts spending a day looking for birds in and around the designated city. All the teams meet up at the end of the day to share experiences and talk about the issues and challenges that they encountered. But first, the birding.

This year our team comprised Vishnu, Sriram and me. Pravin joined us for a bit of the morning session. Our strategy was simple - visit a couple of places we'd never been together before. We picked Karnala Bird Sanctuary, TS Chanakya and IIT Powai as our primary spots. We were tempted was to hit Uran or Akshi beach as well, but we pulled back and decided to enjoy these rather than try and cram more into the day.

Black Kite
We hit Karnala at daybreak, and started on the popular 'Hariyal' trail. And almost immediately we heard the sounds of several species beginning their morning rituals. Flycatchers, Flowerpeckers, Bulbuls, Sunbirds and Warblers all flitted in the trees around us in preparation for their morning feed. We watched them for a bit, got some good sighters and then walked further to try for a couple of Woodpecker species that I was really keen on - Rufous and White-naped. The trail meandered on and other birds appeared in the hazy winter light; Bee-eaters,  Woodshrikes, Doves all presented themselves, but the Woodies were absent. We walked further down where a couple of beautiful Oriole species made their presence felt - first with their melodious calls and then via visual confirmation. Sriram found a Black Kite and Crested Serpent Eagle perched high on a tree to open our raptor count. More waiting and still no Woodpeckers so we reluctantly made our way back to the gate and continue to the next leg of the journey.

We drove back towards Mumbai, with a planned halt at TS Chanakya en route. This wetland is usually home to an amazing number of wader species but that particularly day we got squat. It was probably the tide as there was too much water all across the wetland. We had no option but to call it quits and instead headed to an old stomping ground, Bhandup Pumping Station or BPS. It was almost midday as we arrived there and we didn't expect much. Initially, we got a couple of Stilts and Sandpipers and then Pravin suddenly looked up and said 'Eagles'! And as we stared after him, we saw three large birds riding the thermals up in the sky. We could ID the lower two as Indian Spotted and Greater Spotted Eagles while the one higher up proved difficult to properly ID. And we left BPS to head back home for a quick bite. 

Rufous Woodpecker
Vishnu, Sriram and I met again in the afternoon at the gates of the IIT in Powai. This venerable educational institution also boasts of an astonishing variety of birdlife. Having entered only as a visiting student two decades ago, I was keen to reacquaint myself with this amazing campus, this time as a birdwatcher. We headed right down to the edge of Powai lake and started scanning the vegetation for birds. Straight up, a drilling sound made all of us hasten our steps. Sriram spotted it first; high up on a tree, almost blending with the bark itself was a Rufous Woodpecker! A big sighting for me, having looked for this bird for more than 3 years. A got a couple of half-decent pics and was licking my lips for more when Vishnu called out 'Cuckoo'. And I turned in surprise because this wasn't really the season for cuckoos.

Chestnut-tailed Starling
And as we all tried to ID the Cuckoo, the slighted Woodie took serious offence. He was, after all, the star that afternoon. His ego wouldn't let him play second fiddle to a mere 'Cuckoo' and in true Bollywood hero fashion, he put his nose (beak?) in the air and flew to the far corner to sulk in a tree there. The 'Cuckoo' turned out to be a Black-headed Cuckooshrike female and she didn't seem to be at all affected by the hero's abrupt departure. She flitted around and then graciously made way for a flock of Chestnut-tailed starlings who enjoyed feeding in a nearby tree. A couple of Orioles, Jungle Babblers and Common Mynahs all congregated for their respective afternoon conferences but we wanted the Woodie. And so we set out to find him. He called like a sulking schoolboy from a thickly wooded patch and we braved a swarm of bloodthirsty mosquitos to get close to him. But apart from a couple of sighters against the light, his majesty was in no mood to accommodate us. And so we headed towards the lake shore for the last leg of our day. And there we saw more than 10 different species of birds, from Starlings, Swifts and Bee-eaters to Ducks, Herons and Jacanas. A gorgeous sunset on Powai Lake capped a wonderful day's birding (we recorded 87 species) and it was time for the evening festivities. 

Nearly 300 people gathered in Powai to cap a super bird race. The programme, Hosted by the warm and effusive Mr. Monga, the evening was a lot of fun for young and non-young alike. The best thing though is that it more about the experience than about hyper-competitive team counts. There were fun quizzes and not-so-fun updates on vanishing habitats around the city. Perhaps the most concerning fact was the dwindling number of species in every successive Bird Race. On a brighter note there were teams with more than 160 species sighted but the highlight of the evening was the presence of more than 20 school children who had accompanied their teachers and participated in the Bird Race. It was amazing to see 6th and 7th Graders have the enthusiasm to watch birds for a whole day and still have the energy to partake in the festivities at the end. May their tribe increase!

And that capped our first Bird Race. A huge vote of thanks to Sunjoy Monga, Pravin Subramanian and every one else who puts this together. And to HSBC and the other sponsors who opened their purses and won our hearts with their gesture. Till next year then!

About the Bird Race
The India Bird Races ( began as the Mumbai Bird Race in 2005. Since then it has been held every winter (either January or February) and the total number of participants has shown a steady increase to reach a point where it is first come first served now! Birdwatchers form teams and are allowed to report sightings from areas as far as Virar/Palghar to the north and Phansad to the South East of Mumbai - more than 200 kms apart. It is a fantastic initiative that brings the entire birdwatching community together and while there are always hyper-competitive bad eggs in every city, they were notable by their absence, definitely in this edition of the Race! 

The Races, now held in 16 Indian cities have come a long way from the 2005 edition where around 100 people spotted 277 bird species. That number is remarkable if you consider that India's total species count is around 1300. 20% of India's bird species are visible in and around the country's most 'developed' urban areas. And even as that number has gone down to 236 in 2018, it is still a stunning number and one that all nature lovers in this city should be proud of. It is also a gentle reminder to our planners that nature and its denizens are adaptable and it is we humans who are not.

Thursday, February 8, 2018

Tansa WLS - Quest for the Little Phantom (January 2018)

Even as Mumbai's ravenous urban tentacles snake across the immediate hinterland like a gigantic concrete octupus on steroids, a few green patches manage to hold out against this uncontrolled invasion, albeit under severe pressure. These last remnants of forest not only provide a glimpse of how glorious this entire area once was but also a glimmer of hope for these much-needed natural strongholds. One such little haven is the Tansa Wildlife Sanctuary, about 90kms north of Mumbai. Tansa is valuable not just for its forest cover, but also because Tansa Lake provides Mumbai city with a significant proportion of its water needs. For a birdwatcher though, it is super precious because it houses a near-mythical denizen of India's avian fraternity - The Forest Owlet.

This small sized owl was discovered in 1873 by Allen Octavian Hume (of Indian National Congress fame) It then disappeared from view for over a century from 1884 and was presumed extinct. It was rediscovered in Central India in 1997 by the legendary Pamela Rasmussen; one more reason to be eternally grateful to her. Subsequent researches have led to a few individuals being found in Tansa as well. But it is not all rosy for this wonderful little bird. It barely clings on to survival, a mere talon-tip away from slipping into the abyss of extinction. But the good news is that it is still here. And doing reasonably well (under the circumstances) in pockets like Tansa. Making this forest possibly the finest (and most convenient) place to spot this amazing bird.

I'd seen the bird a couple of years ago, but missed out last January. Two years without seeing it is two years too long, and the weekend of 26th January provided a good opportunity to visit Tansa. The indefatigable Pravin led from the front with Sriram, Vishnu and Siddhesh and me providing (hopefully) adequate backup. The Owlet was top of the wish-list of course, but Tansa is also home to several other rockstar species, including the Malabar Trogon (probably one of its northernmost ranges) along with several species of Woodpeckers, migrant Waders and Raptors.

Black Eagle
Tansa is a magical forest, it puts you at ease as soon as you enter. The endless teak trees wave at you with their large leaves and the serenity of the lake makes you overlook the obvious human presence in the form of the the massive water pipes that wind through the forest. We drove to the spot where we'd seen the bird the last time and a good hour of looking yielded no results. Another team led by Shashank Dalvi, bird researcher and guide extraordinaire also arrived but they managed a glimpse of the bird before it flew off into denser cover. A word on how incredibly tough it is to see this bird - It usually sits in the highest branches of the trees and is just about the size of a large teak leaf, which it (in)conveniently hides behind at times. Without the bird calling to advertise its presence, it is impossible to spot it. And that is what we were counting on as we looked to hit another spot. But first, an unexpected bonus - a huge Black Eagle came circling towards us, gliding at canopy level and providing a very patient model for all our clicks. Greedy that we were, we prayed for him to perch, but he was in no mood to satiate greed, so he continued his glide and then flew out of sight. An awesome sighting set the tone for the next item on the agenda. Food. 

Forest Owlet
After a packed breakfast of sandwiches and theplas (with delicious chutneys) provided by Siddhesh, we set out with renewed vigour. We had to make a detour at the forest department's Eco Camp to pay some entry fees. And as we waited outside the camp, we heard the bird call from across an old quarry. And as we hastened around the quarry, we saw Shashank's group stationed at one place, staring into their spotting scopes and cameras. We circled around to them and they very kindly pointed the bird out to us. Even after seeing the perch, it was still so tough to spot the bird! But it sat there all the time as the humans below huffed and puffed with Scopes, Binoculars and Cameras. It was a fair distance away, high up in a tree and in harsh mid-morning light so the images weren't great. But it was still a privilege to see this special little bird. After we had our fill, we left it there to continue calling and hoped that it managed to reach out to its mate. And we exited with a silent vote of thanks to the maker (and to Shashank and his group); just to be able to see this wonderful little fella provides a great deal of hope and optimism in an otherwise terribly pessimistic outlook to forests and wildlife.

The Forest Owlet is a symbol of survival in the face of serious odds. I hope and pray that it keeps hanging on and continues to bestow magical sightings like these to future generations of birdwatchers too. Not to forget repeat interactions with old friends like us!

Tansa Trip Guide

Tansa Wildlife Sanctuary is about 95 kms from Mumbai, off the Mumbai-Nashik-Agra route (Old NH 3) It is a beautiful deciduous forest with a variety of resident and migratory bird species. You'll always get something interesting there, with the Forest Owlet of course being the jewel in the crown.

How to get there
Air: Mumbai (95kms) is the nearest airport and metro. It's a 2 hour drive on mostly excellent roads.

Rail: Theoretically Tansa can be accessed via the Mumbai Suburban railway Network with Atgaon station on the Central Railway (Kasara) Line only 10kms from the forest. However, you will need a vehicle to drive inside the forest and local vehicles are not reliable.

Road: The best way to access Tansa is via your own vehicle. Two wheelers are also an option since most of the route is on a proper tarred road. Drive up the Old NH3 towards Kasara and turn off the highway at Atgaon. Then follow the Wada-Shahapur Road till you hit the entry gate. Then continue past the Lake till you get to the forest Eco-tourism office. There will be a few locals who could help you find bird(s)

Stay and Guide
Though there are a few resorts not too far from Tansa, the best option is to stay in Mumbai and do a half day trip.

Tansa doesn't have any eating places inside and not many good ones right outside, so it is best to carry a packed breakfast and snacks. As well as plenty of water.
On your way back, the highway has a reasonable number of restaurants and dhabas so you should be OK.

Tuesday, January 30, 2018

Jamnagar - Birding or Nothing! (December 2017)

The western coast of India welcomes scores of migratory waders every winter, as they make their way to several welcoming feeding grounds along the coastline. Of all these places, arguably the most significant is the port town of Jamnagar in Gujarat. Over the years, Jamnagar birding has built a legend around it and justifiably so. And this legend demanded that a visit be paid and a trip was planned, dovetailed with the GRK plan. Owing to a family emergency, this leg of the trip was in serious peril, but I made it, albeit a 2 day trip instead of the originally planned four.

We were looked after by the supremely organized Yashodhan 'Bittu' Bhatia and the effervescent Chirag 'Chiku' Solanki. They run with the motto of 'Birding or Nothing' which I have shamelessly borrowed for the title of this post. Chikubhai would be our guide and mentor, giving us IDing lessons for waders, especially for the notoriously hard to ID terns. All this was thanks to Arpit Deomurari, a Jamnagar and shorebird legend who now works for the WWF in Delhi. And he in turn was introduced to me by Ramki Sreenivasan (check out his work at, one more in the legion of reasons to be grateful to him for.

My first trip was to the area of Narara Marine National Park, known for its shore birds as well as for some unusual visitors in the adjoining salt pans. And as we stepped on to the barnacle strewn Narara shore, one of the first things we saw in the distance was a flock of Crab Plovers. Too far to photograph, this is where Jaysingh's spotting scope really paid for itself. Our first sighting of this spectacular pied bird wasn't the greatest, but it was a superb start. We busied ourselves with Oystercatchers, Curlews, Whimbrels, Sand Plovers, Great Knots and Dunlins. Only the last of these gave us decent pictures by the time we headed out into the salt pans. The targets in these vast water bodies were more exotic - Black Necked Grebes and Red Necked Phalaropes.

Sand Lark
Chiku's eagle eyes spotted two small birds next to a flock of Flamingos. He confirmed via his binoculars that they were indeed the Phalaropes we were looking for. Too far for quality photography and also against the light, we contented ourselves with observing them through Jay's scope. They seemed settled so we took the chance to walk around the other side of the salt pan to see if we could get them closer and in the light. It was a good 20 minute walk, but we did see them in better light and slightly closer and we also saw a flock of Black-necked Grebes, once again through the scope. Happy with that, we drove back and almost at once, a very accommodating Sand Lark came and sat next to our jeep. Further down the salt pans and we saw a whole host of other waders.  48 species in all with 4 Lifers in one morning. Plus a fantastic tutorial from Chiku on identifying terns. Life was good!

Great Thicknee
It would get even better after a fantastic thali lunch. And that afternoon we headed to the wetlands near Gandhinagar Railway station to search for Common Ringed Plovers, another super rarity. We found Snipes, Great Thicknees and Little Ringed Plover, but the uncommon Common Ringed variety escaped even Chiku's eagle eyes. We searched for this bird in a couple of other places, but with no joy. Bittu bhai took us for a sumptuous dinner at an 'all-egg' eatery to finish off a superb day.

The next morning was dedicated to one of my favourite birds of all time - The Crab Plover. More on that later, since we first headed back to Gandhinagar to spend an hour looking for the Common Ringed Plover. Once again, all we saw was Little Ringed Plovers in a flock and that's all we felt we were going to get. Then Chiku started looking at every single bird through the scope. And then he jumped up in excitement, one of the plovers was different. He checked again to make sure, and then announced his find, much to our excitement. He then pointed out the bird to us and thanking our stars for Chiku and the scope we celebrated this fantastic find! It's one of those birds that's on every serious birder's wishlist and we were thrilled to find it. But there was more work to be done. It was time for Operation Crab Plover.

Balachadi beach is not on any tourist map, not even for locals. But this low profile stretch of sand is home to one of the finest congregations of waders in the region. And amidst the Sand Plovers, Oystercatchers, Knots, Shanks, Whimbrels and Curlews sits the stunning Crab Plover. Chiku had promised us good pictures of this bird after the distant sighting at Narara and he masterminded this operation with precision. From our entry into the beach (we took a longer route so as to be out of the birds' range of vision) right down to how we approach and where we position ourselves, everything was spelt out clearly. The tide was rising and his approach was to wait for the birds to come to us. As soon as we entered the beach, we saw a large flock at the edge of the water a fair distance away. We sat and watched these magnificent birds through the scope. And waited for the tide to rise.

Just as the birds got to within 'crawling' range of the birds, they suddenly flew off! Panic stricken we turned to Chiku and got a reassuring look in return. He said they would return and they did, a few hundred metres away. They joined another large flock, making it one super flock of nearly 300-400 individuals. Chiku and Jay sat in the shade with the scope as Manju and I headed closer for a photo-shoot. We took cover behind a large dune which allowed us to get within reasonable distance without being observed. Then we crawled towards them upto a point and waited for the tide to bring them closer. And then for the next forty minutes, we had some of the most breathtaking sightings of these stunning birds, too close to believe! After a point we were done with photography and we only stayed down to not spook the birds. It was only when they flew off to another little patch of sand that we got up, dusted ourselves and walked back, shaking our heads in disbelief at the morning we'd just had.

Great Crested Grebe
My last afternoon in Jamnagar began spectacularly. With lunch. At a small highway dhaba we had the most incredible 'vaghareli rotli' - it's leftover rotis tossed together in a spicy daal. It set the tone perfectly for a visit to the famous Khijadiya bird sanctuary. The main target here was the beautiful Great Crested Grebe, with Orphean Warbler as a bonus. Khijadiya has one main tar road and several walking paths branching off from it and we walked down the first one and scanned both the trees above us as well as the waterbody for either of these birds. We didn't have any luck with either so we got back into the car and drove on. And almost at once, we saw a Grebe in a channel on our left. And over the next hour we would see another ten of these beautiful birds, including a nesting female and a male shepherding his two juvenile children. And to top the evening, an Orphean Warbler gave us a fleeting audience high up in the canopy of one of the trees.

A fitting end to an awesome couple of days in Jamnagar. It was all that it promised and much much more, thanks mainly to Bittu bhai and Chiku. Au revoir it is and not goodbye!

Jamnagar Trip Guide

Jamnagar sits on the Arabian sea, in Western Gujarat's Saurashtra region. The region has a mix of fresh and salt water habitats giving it a spectacular array of birds, including some really special winter migrants. It's well worth a visit in winter and then in March/April when the waders are in their breeding plumage.

How to get there
Air: Jamnagar itself has an airport, but with limited (and expensive) connectivity. Rajkot (90kms, 1 1/2 hours away) is a better option. Ahmedabad (305 kms) is the closest Metro.

Rail: Jamnagar is well connected to Ahmedabad (overnight) and Mumbai. There are also trains that head from there or Porbandar to Delhi.

Stay and Guide
Yashodhan 'Bittu' Bhatia is a passionate birder/photographer himself and he enjoys hosting keen birders from around the country. He knows the area like the back of his hand and his experiences are always worth listening to. And he's a foodie himself, so you'll have a superb time with him. You can reach him on

We stayed at the Hotel President, in the centre of the city. Nice comfortable rooms and good service make it the perfect destination for a birder.

You can get any kind of food you like. The Highway Dhabas and the Egg-speciality restaurant were my personal favourites. Please do try the jalebis for breakfast!

Other tips
Shooting waders might require you to crawl on all fours to approach the birds. Make sure you wear full sleeves and also a proper trouser, else knees and elbows can get badly scraped.

Shores have little shade, so headgear is important.

If you have a heavy lens, then a beanbag of some sort will be important when shooting waders. Better if it is waterproof. I make one with an old sheet wrapped in a large plastic bag and securely taped up. It's light, waterproof and provides enough height to rest a large lens and shoot comfortably.

Crab Plovers - Adult Feeding Juvenile

Crab Plover

Great Crested Grebe

Lesser Crested Terns

Yellow Crowned Woodpecker

Sunday, January 28, 2018

Great Rann of Kutch - The Western Sentinel (December 2017)

Kutch. India's largest district. Home to the Great Rann of Kutch, 10,000+ sq. km. of salt marshes, scrub desert and grasslands. Searing summers and flooded monsoons. Not quite the most welcoming of places, right? Wrong. The desolate beauty, the wonderful people, the spectacular food and the bounty of birds make it one of the most special places in the country, especially during winter and the fag end of the monsoon (only for birders) I'd been to its 'Little' cousin a couple of times, but a trip to this place was always on the wish-list. And thanks to Manjunath and Jaysingh, friends and intrepid birders, a trip bore fruit.

We drove overnight from Ahmedabad en route to Bhuj, on excellent roads and reasonably sparse traffic. Our destination was the CEDO Birding Homestay near Nakhatrana, about an hour from Bhuj. Arriving there in time for the morning birding trip, we met our host Jugal Tiwari who runs CEDO (Centre for Desert and Ocean) He has been at the forefront of conservation in the Great Rann and there is nothing that he does not know about this place. To travel with a legend like him was a privilege in itself and a magical first morning only reinforced that. Driving towards the famous Banni Grasslands, Jugal bhai gave us a lot of insight into the terrain, the birds and also on the conservation challenges in the area. If you think a semi-barren area would escape the clutches of humans, think again. Human pressures have almost driven out the magnificent Great Indian Bustard to extinction across India and the Rann is another case for that. The tragic tale of the Bustard apart, there is still a lot of avian diversity for birdwatchers to enjoy, so a trip is well worth it.

Day 1
Red-tailed Wheatear
Arriving at Banni, the targets were clear. Red Tailed Wheatears first up, followed by a search for the Sociable Lapwing and all the other 'regulars'.  And straight up, he took us to a little hillock where, enjoying an early morning bask, was the Red-tailed Wheatear. Its Variable cousin also made its presence felt, no doubt a tad envious of its attention grabbing sibling. The first two gorgeous little birds done, we headed forth towards the spot where Jugal bhai had seen a lone Sociable Lapwing. En route though, we got flocks of 3 different Lark species - Bimaculated, Greater Short-toed and Crested. Isabelline & Destert Wheatears Wheatears, Desert Whitethroat, Montagu's Harrier and a Greater Spotted Eagle also gave us decent images as we entered the Sociable Lapwing's zone. We searched high and low for this beauty but luck was not on our side. A Steppe Grey Shrike more than made up for that as did a sumptuous breakfast of Thepla, Sandwiches and the most heavenly home made chutney. Indeed an awesome morning!

Bimaculated Lark

A lovely home-made lunch and we were ready for the afternoon. And as we headed down a tar road, Jugal bhai said we should get Painted Sandgrouse here. And to our immense joy, we saw no less than 6 pairs within the next kilometre and all just next to the road. What an amazing start to the afternoon! That was followed by a Variable Wheatear, Grey-necked Bunting and some Harriers as we got into the Banni grassland. We waited by a fox den for a mother and her two pups but they seems to have vacated the premises. The sun was almost setting when I spotted a Quail walking into the grass. I thought it was a Barred Button Quail but Jugal bhai exclaimed "Common Quail", providing me with a special lifer, my first of the afternoon.
Common Quail

A spectacular sunset seem to end all action and we headed back home, but Jugal bhai was on full alert. And we soon saw why. In the light from our headlights, we saw something cross the road. Something with green eyes; Desert cat! We slowly neared where it crossed and he turned on a spot light briefly. And there is was, sitting in a gap in the bush. It had its back to us, and then headed deeper into the bush where it stood once again and looked back at us. Manjunath had gotten off the jeep and moved closer, so he was in perfect position to to get some stunning shots of this beauty. He moved on and so did we. But it turns out we were not done yet. Another Desert Cat appeared in the ditch next to the road. He walked up and started at us and our eyes met for a second. Unfortunately the lens was slow to get there and he didn't have the patience. But what a moment that was! Lots to celebrate as an incredible first day drew to a close.

Day 2
Today we were to first try for the Grey Hypocolius, a signature bird of GRK, and then spend the rest of the day in the Eastern part of Banni, where would accompany a group led by Bharat Kapdi, another local expert who runs Epicentre Home Stays. Bharat was inspired to start Epicentre by Jugal bhai and the two of them share wonderful mutual respect and camaraderie. On to the Hypocolius, a much sought after species by every visitor here. Every morning, they come to feed on a clump of Salvadora Persica trees, lined on both sides of a reasonably busy highway. And today, there were three jeeps to welcome them to their breakfast, ours and two from Bharat's. And while we waited for them to arrive, we were kept entertained by another of the local beauties - Marshall's Iora. These lovely little birds kept feeding and singing in turns and that made the wait really pleasant. Until we realised that the Hypocolius were overdue and there was no sign of them. Jugal bhai kept the spirits up as we drove up and down the stretch but he too was beginning to worry.

And then, a flock of 10-12 long-tailed birds flew above our heads and he exclaimed 'Hypocolius!', with both joy and no little relief. We waited till the birds circles and descended into the trees before we slowly approached. For the next hour or so these beautiful winter visitors gave us all a memorable sighting as they played hide-and-seek in the leaves. These unique birds (with a hooded male and the plainer but no less beautiful female) are 'lateral migrants', they visit GRK and select surroundings from their colder homes around the Persian Gulf. And after a successful morning, it was time to head towards Bharat's homestay.

Streaked Weaver
First stop before that was to try for Black Crowned Sparrow Lark, another rarity and scarce in GRK as well. Bharat had found a few birds at a particular spot and that's where we headed after brekkies. On the way, Jugal bhai found me another lifer - Streaked Weaver, at a roadside pond. And then the entire group joined to find the Larks, led by Bharat and Jugal bhai. First up though, an unexpected lifer - Graceful Prinia which Jugal bhai found. Didn't get quality photos but managed to observe this bird through the binocs. And as we walked here and there searching for the Larks, we could only manage the Ashy Crowned variety. Until we saw one female bird that looked different. And as I lined up my ID shot, one of the gentlemen from the other group, very kindly walked across my field of vision to try and take a shot himself. He didn't manage that, but succeeded in driving off the bird. Luckily someone else got a shot and the bird was ID'ed as the Black Crowned Sparrow Lark. Mixed emotions for me - happy to have seen the bird but annoyed as well for missing out. Turns out that the same gent would get in the way more times that day.

As we headed back to the jeeps, we saw a Variable Wheatear perched at eye-level some distance ahead. So I took a circuitous route to avoid disturbing the bird and was almost at shooting distance when 'guess-who' took a more direct route and the rest you probably would have guessed. No option but to move on. But my respect for the Wheatear community rose several notches as we found a beautiful Variable Wheatear perched on a shrub right next to the road. We stopped the jeep and he posed for us for a couple of minutes. Mollified somewhat, we drove up a small hillock up to a beautiful old temple dedicated to the Sun God. Our target lay behind the temple as we clambered down to a little check-dam. We were searching for Striolated Buntings and as if waiting for us, one came into our vision halfway up the hillock in front of us. And then it came down and sat on a rock at eye level. Since it was a lifer for Manjunath, he slowly went forward and was joined there by 'guess-who'. Once he was done with his photos, I moved forward to take his place. The bird was completely unconcerned till then. Until 'Mr. Guess-who' decided he wanted to click the bird's nose hair and noisily moved forward. And that bird, obviously objecting to his privacy being so clumsily violated, hastily bid adieu. 'Guess-who' 3-0 Srikanth.

Cream Coloured Courser
We headed to Bharat's Epicentre Homestay for lunch. After another home cooked meal and a little rest, it was time to head to Banni East. The targets here were mouthwatering: Stoliczska's Bushchat, Greater Hoopoe Lark, Cream Coloured Courser and the magnificent MacQueen's Bustard. The Spotted Sandgrouse, seen here in large numbers up to a week earlier, had suddenly disappeared much to our dismay. But the other members of the Rann rallied to put up a magnificent show - The Bushchat did one of its puff-and-roll routines, the cream coloured coursers were in attendance and we saw no less than 5 MacQueens, though all distant and in flight. The Hoopoe Lark eluded us and so did a Desert Cat that we searched for, all the way till sunset.

Now, in GRK, sunset doesn't mean end of the day's play. It was Nightjar time. So as we drove back towards Epicentre, we moved slowly along since Nightjar usually perch on or around the road itself. Near the homestay, we saw one perched right on the road. We all got off slowly and made our way one step at a time. Bharat threw a spotlight for a few seconds and IDed it as a Sykes' Nightjar. He would keep turning on the light for a few seconds at a time to help us get photos. The only thing he asked was to not walk across the road and cut the car headlights. Which we all carefully obeyed. Well, not all. Just as I was about to take my photo, 'Mr. Guess-who' walked across the road to get a better photo and the bird, disturbed by this, took to flight. 4-0 and I threw in the towel, it was no contest! An Indian Nightjar a few metres away did provide consolation but the battle was lost.

Day 3
White-naped Tit
This would be my last morning of the trip, some bad news in the family meant that I was flying back that afternoon. We went to Kot Mahadev for the last of the endemics- the White-naped Tit. Reaching there shortly after sunrise, we heard the bird almost immediately and then waited for the light to get some decent photos. The area was abuzz with activity and we got a lot of birds at that spot. Marshall's Iora, Bay-backed and Long-tailed Shrikes and a beautiful flock of Small Minivets. For me, the icing was a decent picture of a Black-headed Bunting. After that, Jugal bhai took us on a walk through one of the last remaining thorn forests. It was a wonderful experience, taking in all the wisdom that he so readily shared. His worry for the area also came through and the tall spindles of 'eco-friendly' wind power structures are a stark reminder that man will never leave nature alone.
For me, it was time to pack it in and head back home. Jay and Manju would continue for another day. Halfway to Bhuj airport and I got a call from an excited Jay, saying that Manju had spotted a Blue Throated Blue Flycatcher at the CEDO Birding campus. It was first record for Kutch and a fantastic sighting.

And that was the wonderful Great Rann of Kutch. A second trip beckons soon and we have already got Jugal bhai booked for that encore!

Great Rann of Kutch Trip Guide

The Great Rann of Kutch is truly great in every sense; size, landscape, people and birds. For an avid birder, this is an unmissable pilgrimage. For a casual tourist too, the milk-white sand desert draw in many score visitors, especially during the annual Rann festival every winter.

How to get there
Our base was in Nakhatrana village with Bhuj (approx. 60 kms, 1 hour) as the closest airport and rail-head. Bhuj is connected via flight with Mumbai and via rail with several cities with Ahmedabad being the closest metro (350 kms away)

Stay and Guide
CEDO Birding Homestay at Moti Virani (near Nakhatrana) is where we stayed. Run by Jugal Tiwari (and assisted by his son Shivam) it is exactly what a birder needs. Nice clean rooms, lovely home-made food (sourced from a home in the neighbouring village) and the expertise of Jugal bhai in the field. Net, an unbeatable combination. You can get more information at

Epicenter Homestay, near Lodai village is run by Bharat Kapdi. A recent entrant to this field, Bharat has proven to be an ace spotter and Epicentre is a lovely property too. More at
Home cooked and superb vegetarian fare will keep your taste buds tickled throughout your stay.

Other tips
The Rann is extremely dusty so if you're allergic to dust, then do take adequate cover. For yourself and your cameras.
Headgear is essential and so is some warm clothing in winter.

Crested Lark

Desert Wheatear

Greater Spotted Eagle

Indian Robin

Isabelline Wheatear

Desert Wheatear Female

Montagu's Harrier

Steppe Grey Shrike

Small Minivet

Variable Wheatear