T17 or Sundari, Queen of the Lakes |
Rarely, if ever, does a sequel perform better
than its first part. And our first Ranthambhore trip had already set the bar
really high. Add to that a superb Bandhavgarh visit and the Ranthambhore sequel
had a virtually impossible job to go to the top of the table. So we went in
hoping, but not expecting to end our Wildlife Wander on a real high. But hey,
this was Ranthambhore and when the gods are with you, boy do they lay out a
treat!! 7 safaris, tiger sightings on 6, 11 different tigers sighted. Plus
Shikra, White eyed buzzards, Golden Orioles, Paradise Flycatchers, Thicknees, Crocodiles. All
added up to make it my best trip to Ranthambhore ever!
It all started with a rather frustrating first
safari. We looked all over Zone 3 for T17 or T19 and her cubs but no juice. On
our way back we passed by Rajbagh, the summer palace and there was his majesty
T28 perched on a little bridge across the water. He started to walk towards us
so we all headed to where we expected him to emerge. But the rascal stopped
midway and lay down somewhere in an island with thick bush. And never emerged.
T28, the dominant male |
The next morning, we entered through a different
gate to head to Zone 5. Barely a couple of minutes in, I saw a huge form move languidly
through the bushes. Tiger! And, wonder of wonders, it was T28! Probably making
up for last evening. He walked down to the road, marked his territory a few
times and climbed a hill to head back to Rajbagh. I still believe he came all
the way only because he wanted to make up for the previous evening!
Spirits boosted, we headed further and as we climbed a beautiful hilly path, Vijay Kumawat (superb wildlife painter, more on him later) said in the middle of another conversation – Tiger on road. I thought he was joking but as we looked ahead, there indeed was a tiger on the road. It was T17, queen of the lakes and a new mother. She very rarely ventured this side of the park, especially now that she had two-week old cubs! As we walked with her, it was clear that she’d come to mark her territory. She sprayed at every turn in the road and strutted about like the queen she was. She stopped for a drink and then wandered about, spraying and sniffing every other minute. As she finally headed back into the bushes, we could barely believe our luck. Two superb sightings, that too of tigers who were very rarely seen in this part of the park. When you’re meant to see something…
The third morning was thrilling even though it
was the only safari without a sighting. But in less than 10 kilometres, we saw
evidence (very, very fresh) of 5 tigers. And as far as the signs go, we saw
them all – fresh pugmarks of T25 (a large male) really fresh tracks of T17
again, straight out of a waterhole. We saw droplets still wet on the mud track.
But no sign of either tiger. Then we carried on further into Zone 5 and were
suddenly assaulted with a pungent odour. The unmistakable scent of fresh tiger
scat, which our driver had run over. We retraced our tracks and saw pugmarks of
a tigress with two cubs and even signs of them sitting in the middle of the
road. And this tigress had never been seen in that area before. Much though we
tried, we saw no tigers but it was an incredible safari all the same because we
were so close to so many tigers. Made us reflect on all our incredible
sightings and how lucky we were to be at the right place at exactly the right
time.
Brahminy Mynah |
That evening, Hemraj joined us on the safari and
we had Zone 4, home to Machali (or T16) Ranthambhore’s Queen Mother and
probably the most photographed tiger on the planet. She wasn’t in a mood to
appear (she came out an hour after we crossed her area) but Hemraj said that he
was sure we would see T6 (or Romeo – a handsome male tiger) lazing in a cave.
And as if on cue, there he was, in a little cave next to the road. As we drove
by, he raised his magnificent head to look at us and then plopped back to rest.
He was an exceptionally good-looking tiger! We quickly got out as the rest of
the circus arrived went looking elsewhere.
T6 or Romeo - What a handsome bloke! |
And that happened to be right behind the hill
where T6 was lying. There was a leopard kill there and we decided we would wait
for the spotted one. While we waited near a waterhole (at a distance from the
kill to allow the leopard undisturbed access) we saw some beautiful birds
frolicking in the water – mynas, paradise flycatchers, drongos, fan tailed
flycatchers and bulbuls all enjoying themselves, and keeping an eye on the
shikra who looked to gatecrash.
Wild boar feasting on a leopard's kill |
And then, we saw something move towards the kill.
Accelerated heartbeats, adrenaline rushing, we slowly made our way there. And
saw something dark starting to feast on the carcass. Finally a Leopard, we
thought!! But our hopes of seeing a rare leopard were bested by something even
more rare – a wild boar eating a kill!! While I’d heard of wild boar scavenging
kills, I was seeing one for the first time. Here he was, confidently tearing
into someone else’s hard earned kill. What a pig!
A pair of thicknees with their little 'chicknee' |
The last day of our Wildlife Wander – three
incredible months coming to an end. What did it have to offer us? How would
this amazing journey end? Straight up as we entered Zone 3, we saw tracks –
vehicle tracks, all headed towards Mandook (or high point) And that could only
mean one thing – Tiger! Either T19 with her cubs or her sister T17. So we
obediently followed, till we hit a traffic jam near a waterhole. And sure
enough, in the water were T19 and two of her cubs. As we waited for our turn in
the queue, the crowd was turning increasingly restless. But we waited, and the
reward came (as it always does for patience) Just as we got our turn, the
tigress and one cub came together and affectionately nuzzled. What an awesome
sight!!
T19 or 'Krishna' |
Then we knew they were going to move. So Hemraj
asked the driver to drive way out in front. So we left the rest of the crowd
and drive a few hundred metres away where we hoped they would cross. And we
waited. Again, patience was rewarded as they walked towards us, and crossed in
front, giving us a friendly (??) looked as they walked past. They disappeared
into the valley and as the VIP jeeps followed (in vain I may add) we turned
back and spent a pleasant half an hour on the shores of Rajbagh lake. Watching
the water-birds and enjoying the breeze. And there, we saw a mother sambhar
cleaning her calf’s ears with her tongue! The things you see in the jungle.
That evening we got Zone 5 again. A tad
disappointed, since I had already been on this route twice and wanted to go to
a different part of the park. And this time, we saw another male tiger, T25 or
Zaalim. He was resting peacefully in a waterhole as we drove by and gave us a
quiet 15 minute audience. For those who don’t know, he’s the father who’s
bringing up his two female cubs after their mother died. A phenomenon that was
hitherto never ever recorded. We knew that the cubs were also in the vicinity,
but didn’t manage to see them. But we did manage to see and salute this
amazingly responsible father. May his tribe increase.
Zaalim (T25) looking longingly at a passing lapwing |
Supreme Court willing, of course!!
Ranthambhore’s ‘people to meet’
Hemraj Meena
Naturalist, home-stay owner and living-breathing Ranthambhore encyclopedia. He grew up in a village on the periphery of the park and is living proof on how the tiger can benefit enterprising local villagers. And there are few better in this country than Hemraj at tracking tigers – I have been the beneficiary of his incredible skills many many times and spent so many happy safaris in Ranthambhore with him. Over the years, he has also developed into a fine photographer. Also, from being a fantastic guide, his own hard work and zeal has helped him progress tremendously. Do stay at his Tiger Home (or drop in at least) for some incredible stories of Ranthambhore’s amazing tigers. Check out Tiger Home at www.ranthambhoretigerhome.com
Naturalist, home-stay owner and living-breathing Ranthambhore encyclopedia. He grew up in a village on the periphery of the park and is living proof on how the tiger can benefit enterprising local villagers. And there are few better in this country than Hemraj at tracking tigers – I have been the beneficiary of his incredible skills many many times and spent so many happy safaris in Ranthambhore with him. Over the years, he has also developed into a fine photographer. Also, from being a fantastic guide, his own hard work and zeal has helped him progress tremendously. Do stay at his Tiger Home (or drop in at least) for some incredible stories of Ranthambhore’s amazing tigers. Check out Tiger Home at www.ranthambhoretigerhome.com
Murli Dher Parasher
Another product of the local villages, Parasherji is an incredibly gifted wildlife painter – a pioneer in his craft. It’s hard to tell a painting from a photograph sometimes. But more importantly, he has used his gift to inspire and aid a whole generation of wildlife painters at Ranthambhore. His Ranthambhore School of art teaches talented young village kids to paint and has spawned a new income stream for many local youth. Check out their remarkable charcoal technique, which uses soot and rolled up newspapers so even kids with little resources can learn to paint.
Another product of the local villages, Parasherji is an incredibly gifted wildlife painter – a pioneer in his craft. It’s hard to tell a painting from a photograph sometimes. But more importantly, he has used his gift to inspire and aid a whole generation of wildlife painters at Ranthambhore. His Ranthambhore School of art teaches talented young village kids to paint and has spawned a new income stream for many local youth. Check out their remarkable charcoal technique, which uses soot and rolled up newspapers so even kids with little resources can learn to paint.
Aditya ‘Dicky’ Singh
One of Ranthambhore’s free spirits, avid conservationist, superb photographer and hotelier, Dicky is another Ranthambhore lifer. His Ranthambhore Bagh is another of those properties that wildlifers prefer over ‘resorts’ and over a drink or six, he will regale you with his stories of Ranthambhore. Check out Ranthambhore Bagh at www.ranthambhore.com or Dicky's own blog at www.dickysingh.com
One of Ranthambhore’s free spirits, avid conservationist, superb photographer and hotelier, Dicky is another Ranthambhore lifer. His Ranthambhore Bagh is another of those properties that wildlifers prefer over ‘resorts’ and over a drink or six, he will regale you with his stories of Ranthambhore. Check out Ranthambhore Bagh at www.ranthambhore.com or Dicky's own blog at www.dickysingh.com
Vijay Kumawat
One of Ranthambhore’s up and coming young painters, Vijay is remarkably gifted. His paintings and charcoals are simply superb. Added to this is his gift for photography, his knowledge of the park and his overall interest in wildlife. Check out his work (both paintings and photography) on Facebook and you’ll know what I mean.
One of Ranthambhore’s up and coming young painters, Vijay is remarkably gifted. His paintings and charcoals are simply superb. Added to this is his gift for photography, his knowledge of the park and his overall interest in wildlife. Check out his work (both paintings and photography) on Facebook and you’ll know what I mean.
Drongo |
Juvenile Shikra |
Kingfisher |
Paradise Flycatcher |
Peacock from an interesting angle |
No comments:
Post a Comment