"Never before in my life have so many lifers been sighted in so few days" - I begin this post with sincere apologies to Sir Winston, for being 'inspired' (Bollywood speak) by his legendary quote. However, there is no better way to sum up those magical days in Kumaon last December, where the old Grimmitt & Inskipp bird book was given a seriously intensive workout!
The Nanda Devi Range - view from Kalmatia Sangam |
The annual December holiday with family and friends was planned around Nainital with the big attractions being snow (for the kids) and the birds (for me) The Kalmatia Sangam, set in the hills beyond Almora was our first port of call, a 4 hour drive from Kathgodam station, with beautiful views of the Kosi river and Bhimtal enroute. We got there around sunset and having left Delhi pre-dawn, we quickly passed out after a lovely Kumaoni dinner. And woke up to one of the most spectacular views on the planet - the magnificent Nanda Devi range bathed in gold; a sight that is impossible to describe in words or capture in pictures. Two days of great fun for the kids in a snow bank and a few birds for me, more glimpses than photo sessions, like a brilliant mountain hawk eagle soaring overhead just when I didn't have camera to hand. I did get pictures of Himalayan Bulbul, Blue Capped Redstart, Lemon Rumped and Greenish Warblers but the highlight was a beautiful Chestnut Bellied Nuthatch extracting a largish insect from the bark of a tree.
Blue Capped Redstart |
Bar Tailed Creeper |
Grey Winged Blackbird |
Lama (as he's called) asked me what I wanted to see - I told him I had three I really wanted to see Red Billed Leothrix, Slaty Blue and Rufous Gorgeted Flycatchers. And that I would happily see anything else he could rustle up. He smiled phlegmatically as we set out on the Sat Tal road near the Graphic Era campus... and the first bird we saw was the Slaty Blue as he gave us a really hard time, but nothing else. We gave up on him and focused on more friendly souls - like a beautiful Blue Fronted Redstart, Common Stonechat, Grey Bushchat and a Yellow Breasted Greenfinch. We walked on and something yellow whizzed across the road - Golden Flanked Bush Robin. This frisky fella never gave me a picture in the open, but what a little beauty he was. Further ahead, we saw Rufous Sibia, a Streaked Laughingthrush and a Rufous Chinned Laughingthrush who gave us a hard time initially before settling down. We wound down with glimpses of both Rubythroats (Siberian and White Tailed) but no pictures. A delicious bowl of the signature 'Veggie & Egg Maggi' at the little restaurant opposite Graphic Era and all was right with the world.
We set out just after daybreak the next day, along the Sat Tal road again; Lord Slaty was elusive again but others were very accommodating - a Rusty Cheeked Scimitar Babbler gave us a grand audience followed by a flock of busy little Dark Chinned Babblers. We retraced our steps to the little temple (where we saw the Bush Robin the previous day) with the priest reciting the Ramayana; it was such a beautiful, peaceful and very uplifting setting. The mood was further lifted, first by Red Billed Leothrix, followed by an-extra friendly Rufous Chinned Laughingthrush and Blue Whistling Thrush. As I walked to the far side of t the temple in search of more Leothrix, Lama called out "Martin". I was like, "a Martin in Sat Tal?" Then he said, Yellow Throated Martin! And this beautiful little fella sat and watched us for a bit, then curiosity got the better of him and he stood on his two hind legs to investigate these strange humans with contraptions that went 'Click, click'. Evidently satisfied with his investigations, he withdrew into the valley and out of sight. A Yellow Throated Marten is a prized sighting and will go very well with my Nilgiri Marten sighting, thank you very much.
Streaked Laughingthrush |
Sunrise over Bhimtal |
Yellow Throated Marten |
Yellow Bellied Fantail |
Eurasian Goldfinches |
Crested Kingfisher |
Slaty Blue Flycatcher (Female) |
Sat Tal is actually just one of the many birding hotspots in this area of Kumaon. Rising from Bhimtal right up to places like Ramgarh, this area boasts a crazy variety of birdlife. Not all of them are found in protected forests, a lot of what I saw was from the roadside, sometimes in degraded bush, adjoining the road itself. Sadly, rampant construction is providing fewer spots for birds to flourish, so while the species might be present, absolute bird numbers could well be dropping in this amazing corner of the world.
How to get there
By train from Delhi - Kathgodam is the nearest rail head, the Jan Shatabdi is particularly convenient - a 6 am train that gets in around noon. Schedules in winter go awry because of the fog though.
Alternatively, Kathgodam is a 5 hour (275 km drive) from Delhi, very doable most times of the year.
From Kathgodam, Bhimtal is only 20 kms, about 45 mins to an hour on winding hill roads, mostly in decent condition.
Where to base yourself
The area around Bhimtal (Bhimtal itself, Bhowali or Mehragaon) would be pretty good bases to cover off most of these destinations.
Places to stay
Bhimtal
I stayed at the Mapple Resort (www.mapplebhimtal.com). A perfectly comfortable hotel located on the main highway. The food could be better, but then, you're barely in the hotel at all, so all you need is a place to rest.
Other options in the area are Country Inn (further up from Mapple) and Green Glen (recommended by Hari Lama), on the Sat Tal road.
Gethiya
The Two Chimeys is a brilliant property, outstanding food, amazing staff and superb birding (www.twochimneysgethiya.com) You can call the property at +91-5942-224541 or Manju on +91-9759887803
Kalmatia Sangam
Another superb property with the most outstanding views. It's a bit up and down to the rooms from reception, so bear that in mind if you're going with very young kids or with elderly folk. (www.kalmatia-sangam.com or call them on +91-5962-251101
Guide
The peerless Hari Lama. Superb bird guide and lovely person. You cannot do better than him and you cannot get what you want without him. Give him a call on +91-9927935841
The peerless Hari Lama. Superb bird guide and lovely person. You cannot do better than him and you cannot get what you want without him. Give him a call on +91-9927935841
Car and driver
You will need a car to travel across these varied spots. We hired a car from Mr. Lalit (+91-9997957246) - neat cars and very good drivers.
Food
The food was excellent at most hotels that we stayed in. While you're out and about, you can stop at any of the little Maggi stalls that dot the hills. Piping hot Maggi, with Eggs and Veggies is absolutely amazing, especially the way they make them in the hills. The little restaurant near Graphic Era University is my favourite.
Do not miss Purohit's in Bhimtal for outstanding home-style food.
Bhat's little restaurant in Ramgarh has the most outstanding Parathas, with chana and a special chutney that cannot be described in words.
Birding Spots
Sat Tal Road - from Graphic Era University all the way past the Ashram, down to Sat Tal
The Studio, Sat Tal - situated near Hanuman Tal, you walk down from Garud Tal
Chafi
Shyam Khet
Ramgarh
Black Capped Redstart |
Common Stonechat |
Grey Hooded Warbler |
Whiskered Yuhina |
Small Niltava |
White Throated Laughingthrush |
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