Even as Mumbai's ravenous urban tentacles snake across the immediate hinterland like a gigantic concrete octupus on steroids, a few green patches manage to hold out against this uncontrolled invasion, albeit under severe pressure. These last remnants of forest not only provide a glimpse of how glorious this entire area once was but also a glimmer of hope for these much-needed natural strongholds. One such little haven is the Tansa Wildlife Sanctuary, about 90kms north of Mumbai. Tansa is valuable not just for its forest cover, but also because Tansa Lake provides Mumbai city with a significant proportion of its water needs. For a birdwatcher though, it is super precious because it houses a near-mythical denizen of India's avian fraternity - The Forest Owlet.
This small sized owl was discovered in 1873 by Allen Octavian Hume (of Indian National Congress fame) It then disappeared from view for over a century from 1884 and was presumed extinct. It was rediscovered in Central India in 1997 by the legendary Pamela Rasmussen; one more reason to be eternally grateful to her. Subsequent researches have led to a few individuals being found in Tansa as well. But it is not all rosy for this wonderful little bird. It barely clings on to survival, a mere talon-tip away from slipping into the abyss of extinction. But the good news is that it is still here. And doing reasonably well (under the circumstances) in pockets like Tansa. Making this forest possibly the finest (and most convenient) place to spot this amazing bird.
I'd seen the bird a couple of years ago, but missed out last January. Two years without seeing it is two years too long, and the weekend of 26th January provided a good opportunity to visit Tansa. The indefatigable Pravin led from the front with Sriram, Vishnu and Siddhesh and me providing (hopefully) adequate backup. The Owlet was top of the wish-list of course, but Tansa is also home to several other rockstar species, including the Malabar Trogon (probably one of its northernmost ranges) along with several species of Woodpeckers, migrant Waders and Raptors.
Black Eagle |
Forest Owlet |
The Forest Owlet is a symbol of survival in the face of serious odds. I hope and pray that it keeps hanging on and continues to bestow magical sightings like these to future generations of birdwatchers too. Not to forget repeat interactions with old friends like us!
Tansa Trip Guide
How to get there
Air: Mumbai (95kms) is the nearest airport and metro. It's a 2 hour drive on mostly excellent roads.
Rail: Theoretically Tansa can be accessed via the Mumbai Suburban railway Network with Atgaon station on the Central Railway (Kasara) Line only 10kms from the forest. However, you will need a vehicle to drive inside the forest and local vehicles are not reliable.
Road: The best way to access Tansa is via your own vehicle. Two wheelers are also an option since most of the route is on a proper tarred road. Drive up the Old NH3 towards Kasara and turn off the highway at Atgaon. Then follow the Wada-Shahapur Road till you hit the entry gate. Then continue past the Lake till you get to the forest Eco-tourism office. There will be a few locals who could help you find bird(s)
Rail: Theoretically Tansa can be accessed via the Mumbai Suburban railway Network with Atgaon station on the Central Railway (Kasara) Line only 10kms from the forest. However, you will need a vehicle to drive inside the forest and local vehicles are not reliable.
Road: The best way to access Tansa is via your own vehicle. Two wheelers are also an option since most of the route is on a proper tarred road. Drive up the Old NH3 towards Kasara and turn off the highway at Atgaon. Then follow the Wada-Shahapur Road till you hit the entry gate. Then continue past the Lake till you get to the forest Eco-tourism office. There will be a few locals who could help you find bird(s)
Stay and Guide
Though there are a few resorts not too far from Tansa, the best option is to stay in Mumbai and do a half day trip.
Food
Food
Tansa doesn't have any eating places inside and not many good ones right outside, so it is best to carry a packed breakfast and snacks. As well as plenty of water.
On your way back, the highway has a reasonable number of restaurants and dhabas so you should be OK.
On your way back, the highway has a reasonable number of restaurants and dhabas so you should be OK.
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