I've sometimes been accused of using the word 'paradise' very liberally across my various posts. Guilty as charged, but is there a better word (or term) that does justice to the magical wildernesses that adorn this country of ours? So, till someone pitches in with a better option, 'paradise' it will be. And no park deserves this epithet more than Kaziranga, for a visit here is truly an out-of-this-world experience. And as the title suggests, seeing a magnificent rhino (or seven) is almost a certainty in this most spectacular of habitats. Enough with the adjectives and on with the trip report, you say? Aye, aye Cap'n!
This trip was planned more than 6 months ago, with a couple of close family friends. The primary motive was for our kids to see the rhino, a privilege not available in our part of the country. And of course we wouldn't be averse to seeing a few tigers (or even one!) such is the magnetic lure of that most royal of cats. And for me, the feathery friends that inhabit this place were an extra motivator. And so we set off, a party of 9, with a couple of pleasant days in Kolkata to kick things off. We arrived at the Iora Resort in Kaziranga late one afternoon, and I caught up with the resident expert, Kushal Boruah. He casually asked me if I'd like to check out Grey Headed Lapwings nearby. And while the Lapwings gave us only a distant sighting that evening, Kushal's company and skill really set the tone for what would become a superlative trip.
The next morning started at dawn, before the scheduled jeep safari. Kushal took me for a walk in the small hills behind the hotel, to look for Laughingthrushes. And we climbed towards the top of one hill, he stopped to check in the bushes along the road. I was a couple of steps ahead of him and he suddenly asked me to stop. Almost at the same instant I heard a growling sound from the bush not more than 15 feet away. I turned to Kushal and he motioned me to walk back down the hill. And then he whispered 'Leopard'. He'd seen a smaller leopard jump down the hill and the silhouette of another climb up, almost up to the road. A few more steps and I might have been breakfast. What a thrilling way to start off this trip!
The next morning started at dawn, before the scheduled jeep safari. Kushal took me for a walk in the small hills behind the hotel, to look for Laughingthrushes. And we climbed towards the top of one hill, he stopped to check in the bushes along the road. I was a couple of steps ahead of him and he suddenly asked me to stop. Almost at the same instant I heard a growling sound from the bush not more than 15 feet away. I turned to Kushal and he motioned me to walk back down the hill. And then he whispered 'Leopard'. He'd seen a smaller leopard jump down the hill and the silhouette of another climb up, almost up to the road. A few more steps and I might have been breakfast. What a thrilling way to start off this trip!
Safari 1 - Agaratoli (Eastern) Zone
Kaziranga National Park is broadly divided into 3 tourist zones - Kohora (Central), Baghori (Western) and Agaratoli (Eastern) And we headed towards the east for our first safari. Agaratoli does not conform to the classical 'Elephant Grass' Kaziranga stereotype. Is more mixed, with large waterbodies breaking up dense forest as well as the occasional grassland patch. It is also the best zone for tiger sightings these days, with 2 families being sighted quite regularly. So we crossed all our fingers as we entered the zone. For me, the first 10 minutes threw up 3 lifers - a Red Collared Dove in a little forest patch, followed by Northern and Grey Headed Lapwings alongside a waterbody. They were all quite far so no great images, but it was a great way to open the account.
Swamp Deer |
Little Pied Flycatcher |
Safari 2 - Baghori (Western) Zone
The afternoon safari was in the Western Zone, home to a lot of elephant grass and swamps and hence perfect for Rhino. And almost as soon as we got into the zone we spotted a couple of Rhinos up close. We then headed towards a watch tower which allowed spectacular views of the waterbody as well as the vast meadows on the other bank. And these meadows were dotted with Rhinos. And as the kids started their Rhino count in earnest, Kushal tried to find me some of the feathered friends I was gunning for. An Abbott's Babbler and a Blue Eared Barbet both called from somewhere near, but neither of them were willing to come out into the open. And then as we headed back, we saw Lakpa with his bunch of guests frantically motioning us to come towards his side of the waterbody. When we got there, we saw jeeps queueing up on the road alongside a small meadow which had a few feral cattle grazing. And vehicles only queue up for one reason - the striped wonder. Apparently, one of the drivers had seen a tiger slink into the grass a few minutes earlier. We all waited in anticipation, guessing that the tiger might be stalking the cattle. And they too were on high alert for quite a while before settling back down. And we knew we had to move on.
Rosy Pipit |
Safari 3 - Kohora (Central) Zone
The morning dawned bright and clear as we drove into Kohora. And almost at once we saw a Rhino right next to the road. This guy was battle scarred and had some recent souvenirs etched on his rump. He saw us, thrust his head into the air and pulled back his upper lips, almost like sizing up our odours. We thought he might charge and pulled slightly further away so as not to agitate him. And a little further were 2 other rhinos, possibly a mating pair. While we watched them, Kushal pointed out a bird sitting far away on a post. it was a Striated Grassbird. I managed to see it clearly through the binoculars though it was too far for a photo. And we drove further along the meadow and suddenly a large flock of small weaver-like birds perched on the tall grass stems. I'd assumed they were Baya Weavers, but Kushal and our superb driver Papu, both confirmed that they were Finn's Weavers. What a bonus! The birds then arrived on a tree almost right above us, so while they were too far up for quality pictures, I was satisfied with record shots.
Swamp Francolin |
Chestnut Capped Babbler |
Safari 4 - Agaratoli Zone
Northern Lapwing |
Day 3 - Birding in the tea estates
White Browed Piculet |
Yellow Vented Flowerpecker |
Kaziranga is truly spectacular and the Rhino alone makes it a 'must visit' destination. But there's so much more to see and experience in this most wonderful of National Parks. And with experts like Kushal and Papu for company, you will always come out with more than you'd expected.
Rufous Necked Laughingthrush |
Kaziranga Trip Guide
Kaziranga National Park is about 200 kms east of Guwahati, Assam's main city and nerve centre. The closest big town (and airport) is Jorhat, about 110 kms away. It's a park that's surprisingly easy to access and has a number of well appointed places to stay, across a range of prices.
How to get there
Jorhat's Rowriah Airport (110 kms - 2 hours) is the closest airport. The highway is being expanded to a 4 lane (except in the Park area) so the drive will be even more pleasant when it's completed.
Jorhat is connected to most big Indian cities via Kolkata and Guwahati and most airlines have a daily flight here.
You can also drive here via Guwahati (4-5 hours) if that provides a better flight connection.
Where to stay
Kaziranga has a number of places to stay, across budget ranges. Since we were traveling as families, with kids and an elder with us, we chose the comfortable Iora Kaziranga. It's a lovely setting with wonderful, large rooms and an excellent Assamese restaurant. The rest of the F&B act can do with some tightening though. Iora also has Kushal, so it was the perfect choice for us in more ways than one.
Wild Grass is the oldest hotel in Kaziranga, though not as luxurious as Iora. Hardocre wildlifers not chasing luxury usually head here. Their naturalist Palash Barua is also a local legend. I've stayed there on a previous visit.
Safaris
Zones: Kaziranga has 3 tourist zones - Kohora (Central), Baghori (Western) and Agaratoli (Eastern) One should aim to cover off all these zones at least once, so please plan a trip with at least 4-5 safaris.
Timings: The timings in Kaziranga are a bit strange. The park opens at 7:30 in winter, which is probably the latest of any park in the country. Given its location in the far east of India, it is bright at 6:00 am even in peak winter, so the 7:30 time is a bit difficult to fathom.
The afternoon safari is more in line with other parks, entering around 2 pm, till around sunset.
Guides
All hotels have their own naturalists, so do ask for them in advance. The park has forest guards (with guns) who accompany some of the vehicles and these guys are very well informed as well. Unlike other parks, mandatory, rostered Forest Guides do not exist in the Kaziranga system,
And if you're staying in Iora, please do ask for the superb Kushal Boruah. If possible, he will team up with the super-sharp Papu Choudhury and together they will make your trip a memorable one.
Food
Assamese food is absolutely delicious, with a combination of delicate flavours and some serious chilli. The local food that we had in Iora's assamese restaurant was superb!
Other tips
Kaziranga can get cold in winter, so do pack some woolies or jackets.
Check for rain forecasts, and pack some basic rain wear and protection for your cameras.
Finn's Weaver |
Grey Headed Lapwing |
Lesser Adjutant Stork |
Mallard |