Great Rann of Kutch (Sept 2022) - The special migrant season

The passage migrant season at the Great Rann of Kutch in Gujarat is like a curtain raiser to the season's birding post the monsoon-induced hiatus in most parts of the country. The Rann, an otherwise arid and seemingly inhospitable ecosystem, is lush green for these few weeks and provides a lifeline for some special species to stop by on their winter migration journeys to the warmer south. Called Passage Migrants, this array of species, from Shrikes and Nightjars to Robins and Flycatchers makes for a fascinating trip to these parts. I'd done one a few years ago and missed out on a couple of them, so making a repeat journey had a lifer agenda too. I was joined by the one and only Jaysingh and Lakpa Tenzing, a legend of the North-East, for whom pretty much every species here would be a new one! 

We arrived at Bhuj early one September morning after a comfortable train journey, and were met at the station by Bharat Kapdi, extraordinary birder, homestay owner and overall fantastic human being. We headed straight towards his village of Lodai, otherwise known as the epicentre of the massive 2001 earthquake that hit the area.  A little before the village we turned in towards a temple where we connected another fantastic birder, Avinash Bhagat, who also runs his own birding tours. He was partnering with Bharat for the month, and had another guest with him. We got off and then straightaway got to work - right in front of us was a Spotted Flycatcher, one of the flagship passage migrants. Lakpa ticked that off at once, and then just had to turn around to get his second lifer, the endemic Marshall's Iora, perched on a thorn tree. He got his fortification from these but the rest of us also need some serious nourishment and that breakfast spread that Bharat put out was sumptuous and most timely.

Post that we headed towards the scrubland behind the temple and got sighters of Red-backed Shrikes, Jungle and Plain Prinias and  a Common Whitethroat. It was hot and the sun was beating down so (understandably) none of them were quite in the mood for a photoshoot. We left them in peace and headed to Bharat's Epicenter Homestay. It is a peaceful, comfortable and charming place, intimate and spaced out at the same time. His hospitality adds to what is otherwise an already lovely setting. We rested out the heat of the morning and early afternoon, heading back out around 4pm to another thorn forest; mainly to secure the Robin and Whitethroat. No luck there but a beautiful Rufous-fronted Prinia more than made up. Driving back in the evening, a Variable Wheatear (Capistrata) provided some excitement with its pronounced white cap. We went back and forth, hoping to identify it as a (rare) Pied or (rarer) Finsch's Wheatear, but it remained a Variable Wheatear. The temporary adrenaline rush was fun though.

A motley crew of Red-tailed Shrike, Eurasian Wryneck and Variable Wheatear (Picata) provided the final action of the day or so we thought. Back at Epicenter we first headed to the nearby dam for Nightjars and Lakpa got two of them (Indian and Savanna) As a bonus, he also got an Indian Eagle Owl. Post dinner, we joined the stakeout for an Indian Civet that patrols the grounds at night. We waited till nearly 11pm and then decided to hit the hay, only to be woken up a few minutes later. Bleary eyed, we tiptoed up to the spot to find that it had decided to leg it and stayed legged as our half hour vigil proved fruitless. 

The next day dawned bright and beautiful with lots of hope. It was time to find the big one - European Nightjar, a very rare visitor to our parts. This bird is the crowning glory of the passage season and one that Bharat works really hard to find. We drove up into the thorn forest and he set out to find one of the birds on its day roost. In the meanwhile we went with Avinash,  looking for Whitethroats among other birds. A Sykes' warbler was reasonably cooperative until Bharat came back with news of a Nightjar. And then he showed us what respect for wildlife is all about. We all walked to around 50 metres of the bird and then he invited us one at a time to get slightly closer. We slowly inched forward on our haunches till we got to within 'photographic distance' (15 metres) and then settled down for a couple of minutes and some pictures. And then repeated this with each of us in turn. The bird wasn't at all disturbed, no twigs or branches were moved to accommodate photographers and we all ended up getting lovely views and some decent images. A win-win-win if ever there was one.

That fantastic morning set the tone for the rest of the trip. Bharat had been slightly tense about not finding some of the other birds, and being the conscientious guy that he is, even us repeatedly reassuring him did not help much. This cheered him up and he announced that we'd spend the afternoon exploring the Banni grassland, how much ever we could access - the rains turn the otherwise arid Rann into a verdant but slushy paradise and vehicles have to be extra careful to not get stuck. And being mired in the Rann, miles from anywhere and with no connectivity is not exactly the most pleasant prospect. So we drove into Banni, a little cautious, only to find that we'd hit pay dirt! Pretty much everything we'd wanted was on show there. Multiple Rufous-tailed Scrub Robins made their acquaintance and the hitherto-shy Shrikes also basked in open glory.We spent a fabulous afternoon in Banni, once again reminding us why it's one of the most special places for birders. For Bharat, he refers to it as his 'mother' and has immense respect and gratitude. We could see why. 

We woke up sated and anticipatory at the same time. Happy at having got the birds and a lovely sighter of the stunning Indian Civet the previous p.m. And licking our lips at what Banni could throw up that day. And boy did we get an absolute feast! The Shrikes were all in attendance that morning, with Red-backed Shrike, Red-tailed and Steppe-Greys all vying to give us a sighting as it were. But the highlights of the morning were a flock each of beautiful Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters and Indian Coursers. Both new birds in Lakpa's list. A very attention-seeking Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin completed the morning. The afternoon was more of the same,  with all these amazing birds giving us time of day and some decent photo opps. We couldn't go very deep into Banni because there was still a lot of water, so the Spotted Sandgrouse and Hoopoe Lark would have to wait for next time. 

We had one final morning and Bharat had a surprise specially for Lakpa. He'd planned for us to drive 120kms to Fot Mahadev where the thorn forests housed another highly localised endemic species, the White-naped Tit. That wasn't usually part of the passage migrant season, but that's Bharat for you. His point, when someone (read Lakpa) comes this far, you have to show him everything you possibly can. And that's exactly what he did - found a White-naped Tit was super co-operative and make our morning. We also got a Common Whitethroat flying right above our heads. A Yellow-crowned Woodpecker crowned a superb morning. A sumptuous lunch in Bhuj and the world was in good hands. We came back to the homestay, lazed and chatted all afternoon and then Bharat dropped us back at the station for our train back.

It was a magical trip, for Jay and me for sure, but especially for my dear friend Lakpa, who added 22 lifers to his already substantial list. The Rann is a place that calls often and that calling cannot be ignored. Till next time then.

Great Rann of Kutch Trip Guide

The Great Rann of Kutch is truly great in every sense; size, landscape, people and birds. For an avid birder, this is an unmissable pilgrimage. For a casual tourist too, the milk-white sand desert draw in many score visitors, especially during the annual Rann festival every winter.

How to get there

Bhuj and Kandla are the nearest airports and Bhuj is the nearest rail head. We were based near Lodai village (35kms away) Both are connected by air with Mumbai and via rail to many cities. Flights to Bhuj are no longer as frequent so train or a flight-train hybrid is probably best.

The best option would be to take an evening flight to Ahmedabad and then take the overnight train to Bhuj

Stay and Naturalists

On this trip, we were with Bharat Kapdi at his Epicenter Homestay. Bharat is a wonderful host and an amazing birder. The Homestay is a lovely 8 room property with comfortable rooms and wonderful local food. Bharat's homework and his work ethic are absolutely top class and it's amazing that he has accomplished so much in less than a decade of taking up birding. Check out the place at epicenterhomestay.com or reach Bharat at +91 99253 13696.

The other option is CEDO Birding Homestay at Moti Virani (near Nakhatrana) where we have stayed previously. Run by Jugal Tiwari who is the master of the area (and also the person who inspired and supported Bharat to start his venture) It's a nice, comfortable place and Jugal bhai's expertise and wisdom are incredible. You can get more information at www.cedobirding.com

Epicenter Homestay, near Lodai village is run by Bharat Kapdi. A recent entrant to this field, Bharat has proven to be an ace spotter and Epicentre is a lovely property too. More at www.epicenterhomestay.com

Food

Home cooked and superb vegetarian fare will keep your taste buds tickled throughout your stay. Also try some of the local snacks (dabeli) and the food in Bhuj if you can.

Other tips

The Rann is extremely dusty so if you're allergic to dust, then do take adequate cover. For yourself and your cameras.

Headgear is essential and so is some warm clothing in winter.

Please note that both Epicenter and CEDO are pure vegetarian and also do now allow alcohol on their premises.

Bird List

1. Spotted Flycatcher

2. Marshall's Iora

3. Jacobin Cuckoo

4. Red-backed Shrike

5. Common Whitethroat

6. Sykes' Warbler

7. Variable Wheatear (Picata)

8. Red-vented Bulbul

9. Common Babbler

10. White-eared Bulbul

11. Ashy-crowned Sparrow-lark

12. Laughing Dove

13. Collared Dove

14. Bay-backed Shrike

15. Great-grey Shrike

16. Jungle Prinia

17. European Roller

18. Rufous-fronted Prinia

19. Delicate Prinia

20.Grey Francolin

21. Red-rumped Swallow

22. Streak-throated Swallow

23. Green Bee-eater

24. Eurasian Cuckoo

25. Indian Robin

26. Eurasian Wryneck

27. Eurasian Hoopoe

28. Rufous-tailed Lark

29. Indian Bushlark

30. Red-wattled Lapwing

31. Yellow-wattled Lapwing

32. Purple Sunbird

33. Baya Weaver

34. House Sparrow

35. Red-tailed Shrike

36. European Nightjar

37. Small Minivet

38. Eastern Orphean Warbler

39. Red-collared Dove

40. Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin

41. Crested Lark

42. Common Sandpiper

43. Black-winged Stilt

44. Green Sandpiper

45. Richard's Pipit

46. Rosy Starling

47. Painted Stork

48. Red-naped Ibis

49. Eurasian Spoonbill

50. Indian Pond Heron

51. Long-tailed Shrike

52. Chestnut-shouldered Petronia

53. Common Stonechat

54. Grey-breasted Prinia

55. Blue-cheeked Bee-eater

56. Steppe grey Shrike

57. Marsh Sandpiper

58. Common Redshank

59. Common Greenshank

60. Black-tailed Godwit

61. Indian Courser

62.Montagu's harrier

63. Isabelline Wheatear

64. Indian Eagle Owl

65. Indian Nightjar

66. Savanna Nightjar

67. White-naped Tit

68. Dusky Crag Martin

69. Barn Swallow

70. Wood Sandpiper

71. Yellow-crowned Woodpecker

72. Common Woodshrike

73. White-throated Kingfisher

74.Common Kingfisher

More photos

Red-tailed Shrike

Red-tailed Shrike

Crested Lark

Steppe Grey Shrike

Indian Courser

Isabelline Wheatear

Variable Wheatear (Picata)