If there ever was a 'sweet' place for a birdwatcher, it would be Mishmi Hills. I make this claim knowing that there are many other claimants to the sweetness trophy. But bear with me for a moment as I present Mishmi's case - it's in the North-East of India, boasts an unbelievable diversity of Himalayan species, relatively easy access, not 'taxing' because birding is just on (or off) the road and a lovely place to stay in Frogmouth Camp. And this is admittedly a reasonably lame rationale for making it the final course (dessert) of our epic North East trip in March.
The best season to hit Mishmi is summer, so we were a bit early but when you're in birding paradise, you're always going to get a special species or seven. And with the peerless Lakpa Tenzing leading us, there was always going to be plenty of action. We arrived into Ravi Mekola's Frogmouth Camp from Walong, to be reunited with friend and super-birder Jaysingh Morey. He'd just arrived from Delhi, having missed the previous legs due to work commitments. And almost at once, we headed out to find the elusive Hodgson's Frogmouth, the bird after which the camp is named. It would give us the run around for the entire trip, with several close shaves but no sightings.
The next morning, we drove uphill towards Mayodia pass, birding along the way. The first bird we saw was a Chestnut Thrush, perched on a roadside culvert. A mixed flock then made its presence felt, with Rufous-backed Sibia, Coral-billed Scimitars, Golden Babblers, Black-throated and Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbills all buzzing around. I was binocular birding, still not having the confidence to use my camera. Not even a Pygmy Wren-babbler or a pair of Beautiful Nuthatches could make me pick said photographic equipment and that says a lot about the state it was in. Eventually, I braved it out and got a few frames of a flock of Manipur Fulvettas.
We saw snow for the first time on the trip, at the Mayodia Pass (2700 metres), there was a fair amount of it along the road. From a birding point of view, Lakpa conjured up a beautiful Bar-winged Wren-babbler (where I did try and get a photo) and a couple of other commoners and then it was the 65 Hotel for lunch. It's a simple, yet delightful little place and for famished birders, nothing less than manna from heaven. On our way back, we got a special endemic bird - the Mishmi Wren Babbler who poked out of the undergrowth for a couple of seconds; enough for Manjunath to get a good frame. A Maroon-backed Accentor was kind enough to pose for some photos that even my patched up equipment could get. A buzzing flock of Yellow-throated Fulvettas added to the buzz that evening. The mandatory check for the Hodgson's Frogmouth yielded nothing and the distant calls of Mountain Scops Owls remained so.
Day 2 began with the same routine, birding en route to Mayodia. A Black-headed Shrike Babbler opened proceedings quite nicely even while skulking in the bush. A pair of Green-tailed Sunbirds then lit up proceedings, with the dazzling male basking in the adulation of eager paparazzi as he showed off his colours in beautiful light. Further up towards the pass and a Stripe-throated Yuhina sat atop a tree and showed that he was no less an attraction to hungry birders. And then we had an amazingly close encounter with a beautiful Green Shrike-Babbler who came and posed like it was his wedding portrait. I was so enjoying myself that even the now-customary failed encounter with the old enemy (Black-faced Laugher) was shrugged off as a non-event. I should remember this the next time he (and it has to be a he, no woman could be that heartless) gives me the usual treatment.
And now, we come to the part that makes Lakpa the phenomenon he is. He'd been trying his hardest to find us a Fire-tailed Myzornis but with no luck. And after the pass, he settled on a likely area, a thick, bushy, verdant hillside. And he scanned and scanned and scanned. Imagine trying to find a green coloured bird in this thick green shrub. He heard one call that none of us did and then he scanned some more. Till he proclaimed 'Myzornis'. We had to try and do some serious yoga poses to even scan the area he was pointing at. And then we saw it, just about. A beautiful green Myzornis blending comfortably with his green surroundings. It was an insane sighting, for the sheer skill and hard work! And with that, lunch at 65 tasted that much better.
This time we headed further along from Mayodia, and our reward for that was a lovely sighting of a Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler, followed by a Crimson-breasted Woodpecker. He sat on an exposed, dead tree trunk and kept hammering away, like a speed-metal drumming god. He was far but near, one of those weird distances where the photography is always less than ideal. And then we heard a Mishmi Wren-babbler burst into song. He was in the brush less than 10 feet from the road, but for the life of me, we could not see him. He kept at it for 15 minutes without giving us even a sighter and only a moment of genius from Lakpa helped us sight him. Lakpa descended from the road, nimble as an ibex, one step at a time, continually scanning the undergrowth. He looked all around, till he realised that the bird was literally at his feet!! And so we all took turns, quietly descending a few feet, to watch this bird through a tiny gap in the bush; it was so close that only Doc's 100-400mm lens worked. At 100mm!! And all this while he kept blissfully calling, almost unaware of five gawking humans!
The penultimate day of our trip dawned bright and clear, and Lakpa decided to take a trip downhill instead of towards Mayodia. We went looking for Pale-headed and Bay woodpeckers and heard both. We didn't see the Pale-headed but the Bay Woodpecker led us a merry dance without ever sitting at a place within reach. We then drove further down towards a lovely little place called Sally Lake, a picnic spot if ever there was one. But we were on business and got around to it rightaway - racking up a Yellow-bellied Fantail and White-throated Bulbuls even before we hit the lake. And there, on the banks, I got my first Flycatcher of the trip - a Sapphire. He was too far up in the canopy for good pics, but it was a lovely find. Add a Himalayan Swiftlet and Yellow-browed Warbler and I had a trio of lifers for the morning. Manjunath and Jaysingh went after Slaty and Black-backed Forktails while I contented myself by observing (and shooting) a majestic Black-throated Sunbird.
Post breakfast, we did the customary drive up towards Mayodia. We were looking for something in the bush when a largish bird popped out on the road behind us - a Long-tailed Thrush. It posed for a few seconds and then hastened back, almost like it had arrived only to get its photos taken. Further on and Lakpa was trying really hard for a couple of species - Long-billed Wren Babbler and the enigmatic Ward's Trogon. Of the latter, there was no sign but the former called at many spots along the route and in one place, it deigned to come out for a couple of seconds. Which was more than enough for Manjunath to nail some stunning frames. Spirits already boosted, we got a further lift when a Grey Cheeked Warbler and then a Fire-breasted Flowerpecker decided to give us exclusive audiences. They both flitted this way and that in front of us and gave us a grand sighting.
And that wasn't even the highlight of the day. That honour went to a solitary Long-tailed Broadbill who gave us a half hour show in beautiful evening light. This is such an incredibly beautiful bird, with its amazing colours and that helmeted head. It capped a fabulous day's birding and set us up for a nice final day. Which opened with a Beautiful Sibia, one of Mishmi's most common species, but a bird we hadn't seen till then. That opened the gates to a flurry of species near Tiwarigaon where Little Buntings and Hodgson's Redstarts we followed by Orange-bellied Leafbirds and a beautiful Himalayan Cutia. With satisfactory photos of this, we moved forward to encounter another striking little bird - Black-eared Shrike Babbler. That and a Dark-rumped Rosefinch later, we came back to camp and packed up for the drive back to Maguri Beel where we would spend the night at Binanda Hatibaruah's Maguri Eco Camp.
A quick trip to the grassland the following morning gave Jaysingh a couple of good lifers and ended what was a monumental trip. 14 days, 3 different destinations, more than 275 species.... if this is not the good life then I don't really know what is!!
Since then, Manjunath and Atul have already made a trip back to Mishmi to get some summer specialities!
Mishmi Hills Trip Guide
The Mishmi Hills fall in eastern Arunachal Pradesh, very close to the border with Assam. The relatively low altitude, good connectivity and the sheer diversity of bird life make it a un-missable destination for any serious birder. No wonder that birders from all over the world come here for their fill of Himalayan birdlife.
Getting there (all distances from Frogmouth camp)
Dibrugarh (168kms) is the closest airport and Dibrugarh or Tinsukia (120kms) are the closest railheads. Roing (14kms) is the nearest town and the source for all supplies.
Dibrugarh/Tinsukia are quite well connected by air and rail to most Indian cities via Delhi or Kolkata. The train journey would be quite long though!
Places to stay
After Roing, there are only a couple of places to stay - Coffee House near Mayodia (not really in the best shape now) and Frogmouth Camp (14kms from Roing) Both are managed by Ravi Mekola, though Coffee House is apparently owned by the government and he has little say in its upkeep.
Frogmouth camp is a lovely little place, 4 tents with proper attached washrooms and a dining room. Great location, nice clean rooms and very good food. Well worth making it your base.
Naturalists
There are many naturalists who are Mishmi experts so I will only talk about those that I have personally been with.
Lakpa Tenzing of course is one of the best (Mobile phones - +91 97730 18122/73190 25123 or email lakpatenzing84@gmail.com) and you cannot go wrong with him. His skill and work ethic are absolutely spectacular. He of course covers off several places across the North East, from Sikkim to Arunachal.
Ravi Mekola is a local legend, being a Idu Mishmi himself. His incredible knowledge and immense skill make him an absolute master of the area. You can reach him on +91 94024 57180/ 97747 48828/878 7302534.
Firoz Hussain is the other naturalist I have seen Mishmi with. Again a supremely gifted and highly skilled birder and someone who has accomplished a lot within a decade of picking up birding. You can reach him on +91 88110 83750/91015 48770
Food
The food at Frogmouth Camp is excellent, but obviously limited in range given the location. They usually pack breakfast when you head out in the morning so you're sorted till lunch.
Tiwarigaon had a local cafe which served Maggi and some other light meals. but it was shut when we visited. Post that is the legendary 65km where you will get a nice wholesome meal.
The recommendation is to carry some dry snacks with you from your base location or Roing so you can indulge any mid-meal cravings.
Other tips
Please carry your own water bottles and refill at camp or at the eateries. Plastic waste and its disposal is becoming a huge issue and we can't let it spoil these beautiful places.
Be prepared for rain at any point, the weather can turn in a jiffy. So some rainwear or quick drying clothing is a good idea as is a spare pair of shoes
If you're into photography, a rain cover for your camera/lens is a must, as is a monopod for you to be able to carry and stabilise your equipment while shooting
