The Uttarakhand Himalayas have a particularly close place in my heart, and not just for the amazing birding. It was where I actually went from a birding enthusiast to die-hard birder, after a magical few days with Hari Lama nearly a decade ago. Since then, I've made several trips back there and it's been special every single time. And so, when a long-ish weekend popped up and brothers-in-crime Jaysingh and Manjunath also keen, a trip was quickly put together. On the wishlist this time were some special birds, including the Cheer Pheasant which both Jay and Manju particularly wanted. An overnight train from a rather chilly Delhi dropped us early in the morning at Ramnagar, on the outskirts of the Corbett Tiger Reserve where we were met by Hari Lama, and we headed straight to Cheer-capital - Manila.
This town, about 3 hours from Corbett has become famous in recent times for its Cheer Pheasant sightings and we were hoping that the place lived up to its reputation. A pleasant drive later, we arrived at Cheer-point. And waited. And waited some more. Lamaji paced up and down, peering and squinting down the grassy slopes for a sign of the Cheer, but there was none forthcoming. Not even a single call. Manju got a record shot of a White-headed Bunting and some Black-headed Jays hung around, but apart from that, there was total silence. We headed to breakfast at Manila village, hoping that this was an aberration. Sadly, it would not be the case.
We checked in at the comfortable Manila Birding Lodge and a lovely lunch later, we set out in a different direction. We drove downwards into the valley and at one point Lama ji stopped the car and said we'll walk around a bit. And almost immediately, in the backyard of a little home he spotted what would become the bird of the trip- Black-throated Accentor! A bird I'd been looking for a long time, and one of those that proved frustratingly elusive. Not any more, as a small flock foraged in the little field and one or two took up positions in the thorn bushes above. We got a few decent images of one particularly co-operative bird. It sat at the same place, allowed us to get reasonably close and even preened and strutted a little bit. Maybe it was eyeing a career in films and thought we were paps who could give it a break.
Anyhow, the spirits underwent a dramatic lift after this remarkable lifer. Only to be dented a bit by the non-appearance of the Mountain Scops Owl. We heard calls all over the place, including right in front of the lodge, but it stubbornly refused to show itself, despite all of Lama ji's efforts to coax it out. Nevertheless, dinner tasted better that night and the optimism for a Cheer or six the next morning was reasonably high. And the next morning we were back at Cheer point, to set up a long stakeout. And once again, we got nothing. Maybe the recent burning of the grass on the higher slopes could have disrupted the Cheer's usual routine. Whatever the reason, we got nothing. A pair of females - Pink-browed Rosefinch and Blue-capped Redstart tried their best to revive our spirits, but it didn't really work.
Post brekkies, we set out for Kaladhungi, on the outskirts of Corbett Tiger Reserve, where we would spend the next couple of days. The targets were Grey-crowned Prinia, Immaculate (Nepal) Cupwing and Yellow-breasted Bunting. The usual Cupwing spot near the Garjiya temple was overrun with people and cars, it being a Sunday and seemingly everyone in a 100km radius feeling the need to offer their prayers. We gave up that particular spot and tried along the riverbank. A beautiful Crimson Sunbird gave us a belter of a sighting and Manju got some remarkable photos of a hunting
Plumbeous Redstart. And as we were wrapping up and heading back, a Himalayan Rubythroat (lifer to both Jay and Manju) made an appearance and played a bit of hide and seek in the scrub. And that was that for the day.
Lamaji took us to some nearby hills the next morning to try for the Prinia. We climbed high and low, walked about almost endlessly but without any evidence of the Prinia. And this was prime habitat for the bird! Talk about bad luck. The highlight was a lovely little waterfall where Manju indulged his wide-angled landscape itch. That apart, a Black Bulbul flitted about and a Grey-breasted Prinia briefly raised hopes, which were quickly dashed. We went to yet another place to try for this bird, and there too were met with total silence. It was almost like all the Grey-crowned Prinias were on vacation together. Driving back, Lamaji spotted a bird in the puddle on the roadside and proclaimed "Chestnut-eared Bunting" - a lifer for Jay and one where I was looking for a better photo. Managed a decent one in harsh light and felt a little better.
That afternoon, we headed to the Haripura Dam to look for buntings. Amidst the flock of Black and Red-headed Buntings lay the tantalising prospect of finding their rare Yellow-breasted cousin. And we looked at every Bunting that came our way with eagle eyes, but apart from one which looked slightly different (but flew off into the distance before we could get a photo) we didn't see any evidence of the rarity. And so dawned the final morning. We headed to the previous day's spot with intel that both Prinia and Cupwing made it their home. And almost at once, we saw evidence of the latter as it flitted to and fro in a thick bush right along the road. Frustratingly, it refused to come out and grant an audience. The Prinia obdurately refused to even acknowledge our existence and it was with a heavy heart that we had to accept defeat and retreat. A small flock of Common Green Magpies and White-crested & Striated Laughingthrushes gamely tried to lift our spirits, but we knew when we were beaten.
Lamaji of course refused to stop trying, stopping at various spots along the way to try for the Cupwing. The highlight was a lovely walk though a very promising birding area, with Black Bulbuls and Blue-throated Barbets offering lovely sightings. That led to a little bridge above a small rivulet with scrub on both sides, where his eagle ears heard a Himalayan Rubythroat call. That worthy kindly decided to become the highlight of our final outing as it came out and posed for a few photos. With that, and fortified with a lovely lunch at a roadside dhaba, we bid adieu to Lamaji and my beloved Uttarakhand. This may not have been the most productive from a lifer point of view, but that's the way the dice rolls. Finishing off my Accentor list was an eventful enough landmark for me to cherish, as was the opportunity to bird with the incredible Hari Lama.
Till next time then!
Uttarakhand (Kumaon) Trip Guide
Uttarakhand is nothing short of birding paradise with an incredible number of hotspots - from the area in and around Corbett Tiger Reservice, to Sat Tal and its surroundings, right up to Manda/Chopta, Munsiyari and the pristine Harsil valley. There are so many birds to sight, and there's always something, no matter which time of the year you come here.
How to get there
By train from Delhi - Kathgodam/Ramnagar are the nearest rail head, there's an overnight train from Delhi to both these stations and also a day train to Kathgodam - the Jan Shatabdi.
Alternatively, Ramnagar/Kathgodam is a 5 hour (235/275 km drive) from Delhi, very doable most times of the year.
There's also a new airport in Bareilly, connected surprisingly well to many cities. That's around 3 hours from Corbett or Sattal
Places to stay
There are many stay options in this part of the world. Hari Lama runs the Birders Inn at Bajoon and another well-regarded naturalist Rajesh Panwar runs properties in Manila and Kaladhungi.
Guide
The peerless Hari Lama. Superb bird guide and lovely person. You cannot do better than him and you cannot get what you want without him. Give him a call on +91-9927935841. He will also help sort out stay and transport.
