After an amazing 3 days in Corbett, we linked up once again with Hari Lama, bird guide extraordinaire and master of the Uttarakhand hills. This time we were headed to Chopta in the Upper Uttarakhand Himalayas, followed by another few days back in Sattal. Chopta was another destination on the 'must visit' list, with great sightings of some much coveted birds, with the signature bird being the Himalayan Monal. It doesn't get much better than that, does it?
Day 1 - On the road
Black Stork |
Day 2 - Mandal
Scarlet Finch - Male |
We climbed (and I scrambled) up the slope which was no mean feat for my aging limbs and just as I got into position, something ripped into my right eye. I'd walked into bichhoo ghaas (nettles) And it started to smart and my eyes started watering; Lama announced that it was the finches' favourite food. Here I was, bleary eyed, trying to get clear images and there was this bird, in the same nettles, feeding without a care in the world. I managed to click some images with my good eye. Most of my time though, was spent admiring these spectacular little birds, so vividly visible even to a fuzzy eyed, clumsy soul like myself. The next challenge was climbing down the muddy slope - adrenaline (and the finches) had allowed me to clamber up but no bodily chemical came to the rescue on the way down. So as the rest of the group nimbly bounded down, I scraped and slid my way down, grateful that I reached flat land with only my ego bruised.
Himalayan Woodpecker |
Scaly Breasted Wren Babbler |
Golden Bush Robin |
Day 3 - Mandal and Chopta
Spot Winged Grosbeak - Female |
Himalayan Monal |
Lammergeier or Bearded Vulture |
Day 4 - Makku Farm (Chopta)
The following morning, after a lovely stay at Hotel Snow View (you just have to stay here) we headed towards Makku Farm, another legendary birding spot. En route, on the road, we hit pay dirt with 3 super-special birds on the road - White Collared Blackbirds, a Chestnut Thrush and then a Black and Yellow Grosbeak! 'What else could Makku offer?', we wondered. It's a real farm where the birding happens even as you dodge curious cattle and weave your way through paths adorned with their dung. But the birding is special - we were welcomed by a Pink Browed Rosefinch, followed by a Maroon Oriole. And then things really started to happen; Lamaji said 'Mistle Thrush', even as a bird flew up from virtually right under his feet into a distant tree, where we go record shots. And then another special one - Spot Winged Rosefinch. This beauty came out and perched on a bamboo and gave us all some reasonably good pictures. Rufous Breasted Accentors, Black Headed & Eurasian Jays and a Bar-tailed creeper added to the festivities plus a decent picture of a Hill Partridge crowned off a lovely morning. And a patient Long Billed Thrush by the roadside gave us some lovely photos. And on our way out of Chopta, a bunch of Himalayan Vultures gave us a flypast at crazily low heights, so close that we weren't able to fill them in a frame at times. So make that a spectacular morning, actually!
Chestnut Thrush |
And as we drove back, we passed through the Prayags again. This time we got off and spent some time on the banks of the Mandakini which meets the Alaknanda at Rudraprayag. The force of this feisty river and its beautiful colour really takes the breath away. With silent salutations to these stunning tributaries of the Ganga, we headed to Sattal to complete the final leg of this incredible trip.
Vowing to return in the not too distant future.
Vowing to return in the not too distant future.
Chopta Trip Guide
Chopta, in the Chamoli district of Garhwal, Uttarakhand is a very popular pilgrimage transit point in the summer and autumn, being on the popular Char Dham route, which includes Badrinath and Kedarnath. It also is a superb birding hotspot in winter, arguably(?) the best place to get the Himalayan Monal, that bird with the above average plumage!
How to get there
Chopta has two birding points - Mandal in the lower reaches and Chopta itself. The only way there is to drive. Nearest rail head is Haridwar (225kms - 5-6 hours drive) and the nearest airport is Dehradun's Jolly Grant airport (246 kms - 8-9 hours drive)
Ramnagar (Corbett) or Sattal to Chopta would both be 9+ hour drives.
Ramnagar (Corbett) or Sattal to Chopta would both be 9+ hour drives.
Places to stay
Mandal has a few guest houses but only one was open when we went in December. This place, (xxx) was seriously average and the food left a lot to be desired. It's more neglect than anything else. But for lack of better options, this was passable.
Up in Chopta, just beyond the village itself is a beautiful property called Snow View. It's got beautiful rooms; large, roomy and very well done up. The food is excellent and the owner is a lovely man. There's no electricity here, so he makes it up with a generator for 3 hours in the evening and 2 solar powered lamps for the night more than make up for no electricity.
Food
There are many dhabas en route to Chopta where the food is stunning. Simple home style food like Roti-Sabzi or Kadhi-Chawal tastes even more special when cooked in the hills. Your driver/guide will know the best ones so please go with their recommendation. And yes, there is always Maggi if you're not happy with the choices on offer.
Up in Chopta, just beyond the village itself is a beautiful property called Snow View. It's got beautiful rooms; large, roomy and very well done up. The food is excellent and the owner is a lovely man. There's no electricity here, so he makes it up with a generator for 3 hours in the evening and 2 solar powered lamps for the night more than make up for no electricity.
Food
There are many dhabas en route to Chopta where the food is stunning. Simple home style food like Roti-Sabzi or Kadhi-Chawal tastes even more special when cooked in the hills. Your driver/guide will know the best ones so please go with their recommendation. And yes, there is always Maggi if you're not happy with the choices on offer.
Birding spots
Mandal and around are great places to begin. The road from Mandal to Chopta can throw up surprises at any point. And Chopta itself has the Monal Point and Makku Farm.
The more adventurous can take the 3km trek up to Tungnath, supposed to be a stunning place with scores of Monals. And plus the lure of Lammergeiers and Golden Eagles.
Mandal and around are great places to begin. The road from Mandal to Chopta can throw up surprises at any point. And Chopta itself has the Monal Point and Makku Farm.
The more adventurous can take the 3km trek up to Tungnath, supposed to be a stunning place with scores of Monals. And plus the lure of Lammergeiers and Golden Eagles.
Guide
You cannot get better than Hari Lama. Period. He's the king of the Western Himalaya, so call him on +919927935841.
Stripe Throated Yuhina |
White Collared Blackbird |
Rufous Bellied Woodpecker |
Koklass Pheasant |
Long Billed Thrush |
Grey Bushchat |
Grey Crested Tit |
Hill Partridge |
Blue Fronted Redstart |
Ashy Throated Warbler |
Black and Yellow Grosbeak |
Nice !!!
ReplyDeleteHelpful info.. Looking forward to be there and get photos of Himalayan Monals.
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