Rainy debut
White-bellied Sea Eagle |
The Missing Tattler
Bar-tailed Godwit |
Noddy-time
Lesser Noddy |
Aravind was ready as always at 4:30 a.m. for the drive to Pulicat. Once there, we got on board with Yuvaraj, a fisherman turned bird guide, handpicked and trained by Ganesh and Aravind. He confirmed that the birds were still there and that was good enough for me. The one bummer (there always has to be one!) was the weather. It was overcast and the threat of rain hung in the air. Thankfully the latter never arrived but the clouds definitely threw a spanner in the photography works.
We scanned the lake for the Noddy(s) but they didn't seem to want to make an immediate appearance. There were scores of other birds as well. Terns, Gulls, a couple of Peregrine Falcons and the odd Osprey made for an interesting start to the morning. And then we saw it. Within a big group of terns sat one brown bird. A Lesser Noddy. Yuvaraj used all his skill to manoeuvre us as close as possible and we got a few photos. It didn't quite live up to its reputation as a willing model and was a bit skittish. But I was not complaining! Just to be able to see this beauty was well worth it. And while lining up a shot for this bird, a tern popped up in the frame. At first glance it looked larger and slightly different from the rest. And a closer look at the bill confirmed that it was different indeed! It was a Sandwich Tern, a bird I had only seen earlier through a spotting scope a fair distance away. Now it was less than 20 feet away and sitting very comfortably. Deeply grateful, I clicked a few pictures, thanked Yuvaraj and we both bid adieu to this incredible birding treasure called Pulicat.
Sandwich Tern |
It has thrown up a magical sighting or surprise every time I have visited. Yuvaraj's skill in spotting a rarity within the thousands of birds spread over a mind-boggling expanse is nothing short of spectacular. And a special thanks to his mentors and my friends, Aravind and Ganesh. In an increasingly competitive birding world, they are always open, always welcoming and always sharing information with other birders. Not to say always willing to drive a fair distance at an unearthly hour, just to help you see a bird that they have seen a dozen times. May their tribe increase!
Here's to many more trips to this incredible birding wonderland.
Pulicat Lake Trip Guide
Pulicat Lake is a 750 sq. km. brackish water body, the second largest in India. It straddles 2 Indian states - Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh, with most of the lake falling within the latter state. It is also home to Sriharikota, one of the homes of India's space programme. From a birding point of view, it has been sparingly explored (not surprising given the expanse, terrain and the high-security zone it falls under) and that too on the Tamil Nadu side. Even so, the variety of bird life and the rarities it has thrown up is nothing short of astonishing.
Getting there
Pulicat is about 60 odd kms to the North of Chennai, in the direction of Gummidipoondi and Nellore. Chennai, of course, is the nearest metro and airport and a 2 hour drive on mostly good roads. Like with any big city, the drive can get much longer during peak hours.
The best way to get there is to drive from Chennai.
Stay
Chennai should be your base for Pulicat. And it has all kinds of options, for stay and food. If you have to pick, then try and stay as close to central or northern Chennai; it will help you cut down on the drive time.
Boatman
Yuvaraj is your man for Pulicat. An ex-fisherman, he is now almost a full time bird guide and has been expertly trained by Ganesh and Aravind. He's quite in demand these days, especially when the rarities arrive, so please call and check his availability. You can reach him on
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ReplyDeleteHi Srikanth,
ReplyDeleteNice post on the rarities of Pulicat. I live near pulicat. But to be honest, I am kind of clueless on where, when and how. Still trying to figure out. Glad to learn about these rarities and species from you. I have been to AP-side of the Lake ( SHAR Road ) couple of times but the birds seem very far away except for a couple of storks, egrets. Can you please share the contact of Mr. Yuvaraj and share details of where to bird TN side.