Day 1 - Enroute to Dzuluk
Post our productive little foray on the Rishyap Road, we headed to Melli (near Kalimpong) to rendezvous with Lakpa, our torchbearer for the Sikkim leg of the trip (more on him later) We drove through the hills, first stopping at a stunning, towering Hanuman idol in the hills and then at the quaint, if crowded town of Kalimpong where the effects of the demonetization were just beginning to bite. A desperately needed pair of jeans were on the anvil and the heart skipped a beat when the now 'old' 500 bucks were refused. Thankfully the store had a credit card machine and I promptly struck a blow in favour of 'cashless India'. Lunch at the legendary Gompu's Hotel, washed down by a pint of lager and we were all set to launch into Sikkim. We met Lakpa at Melli, exchanged our bags and said goodbye to Ram and Kisan. And then switched again into our Mahindra Bolero piloted by the one and only Ramesh in Rangpo. And off we went to Dzuluk in East Sikkim. It was pitch dark and freezing by the time we checked into the Dil Maya Homestay and the hot, delicious food did a lot to warm us up! But what got us really going were the pictures of the Himalayan Monal (and other birds) taken by the owner of the place.
Day 2 - Dzuluk
Mt. Khangchendzonga |
The Silk Route |
White Browed Rosefinch (Female) |
White Browed Fulvetta |
White Browed Bush Robin |
Himalayan Monal |
Day 3 - Dzuluk
Alpine Accentor |
Rufous Capped Babbler |
Streak Breasted Scimitar Babbler |
Day 4 - Dzuluk, Rongli
Hume's Bush Warbler |
Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush |
Slaty Backed Forktail |
And were completely blown away by the place. It is a stunning place - beautiful house with lovely rooms and all the mod-cons. The most gratifying was a hot shower - one of those and we felt human again. And as we drifted into their kitchen for the most amazing home cooked dinner, we were really in heaven!
Day 5: Hilley
Spotted Laughingthrush |
Rufous Vented Yuhina |
Brown Parrotbill |
Day 6: Barsey Sanctuary and Hilley
Scaly Laughingthrush |
Black Headed Shrike Babbler |
Golden Breasted Fulvetta |
Day 7: Hilley
Black Throated Thrush |
Hodgson's Redstart |
Post breakfast we were walking down the road and keeping an eye out for Parrotbills and Fulvettas, Lakpa heard the call of a Satyr Tragopan. And that set the proverbial feline amongst the pigeons. We virtually ran back uphill to where he thought the bird could be. After scanning the area around, he concluded that it could be up a small hill in front of us. And as he ran up, Ramesh followed and I puffed up. Heaving and panting at the summit, we saw no Tragopan (he'd obviously reached the next district by that time) but we had a beautiful view of Mount Pandim (of the Khangchendzonga range) and the valley below us. Definitely worth the little trot up.
Back to earth and we encountered a flock of Black Throated Parrotbills post lunch. Once again my lack of speed with the camera proved to be a bummer, but Ramesh managed a superb picture of this little beauty. And that left us with one final morning, for me to redeem myself with at least one picture of the parrotbill!
Day 8 - Adieu Sikkim
The last morning arrived and Lakpa was on a mission to get me my Parrotbill photos. But even he couldn't swing it despite all his efforts. I'd also decided NOT to look for my Black-faced adversary any more, so we wrapped up an incredible week in one of the loveliest parts of the planet. A place where I'd like to come back, again and again and again.
Sikkim Trip Guide
This whole state is a traveler's paradise and now coming into its own as a birder destination too. Every part of the state has something to offer an interested birder - from Dzuluk in the far east, to Barfung and Rabangla, Hilley/Barsey and Pelling to the west and then the mother lode at the Khangchendzonga National Park from Yuksom.
How to get there
By train to New Jalpaiguri - NJP, as it's called is the railway gatehead to North East India and hence is a very important station. Trains from all across India arrive here, though Kolkata (an overnight ride) would be the shortest and most convenient.
Bagdogra Airport is the nearest airport for the entire region and it's how we arrive there. Dzuluk would take the better part of 6 hours from the airport.
Places to stay
Dzuluk
We stayed at the Dil Maya Homestay near Dzuluk village. It's more a little lodge than a homestay and is reasonably basic. The rooms are perfectly acceptable and the food is superb. But the highlight has to be the staff, led by Pempa they are ever-smiling and always willing to help.
Hilley/Barsey
The Kyilkhor Inn |
Our Room |
Guide
Now what can you say about Lakpa Tenzing? At first sight he comes across as cool and carefree young man, but start birding and see his expertise blow you over. Nothing more needs to be said here, you just have to experience it! Write to him at lakpatenzing84@gmail.com
Car and driver
Like in all trips to this part of the world, a car is a must and your guide will usually arrange everything. We drove with Ramesh, an ex-army driver who knows the roads as well as his vehicle inside out. When he's not driving us around, he's usually tinkering with his beloved Bolero, ironing out and fixing every little kink.
Food
The local food is simple but sumptuous. You cannot go wrong with it and there's always Wai-wai noodles to add some spice to the day.
When you're birding all day, make sure you carry a packed lunch and stuff to munch during the day.
When you're birding all day, make sure you carry a packed lunch and stuff to munch during the day.
No comments:
Post a Comment